Zula Beach Cottage, Paternoster

Seaside Simplicity

  

What are the key features of a sensational seaside spot? Views of the sea, of course, within touching distance, with perhaps nothing separating one from the white sands other than a set of double glass doors and patio with an outdoor seating area. The architecture should be Cycladean, with clean lines, white walls, blue-grey windows and doors. Seaside interiors are ideally calm, cool and white, with hints of blue. 

Cue Zula Beach Cottage in the pristine little fishing village of Paternoster on the West Coast. This open plan cottage has all of these things. It is as close to the sea as it gets and the views are ever changing pictures of nature and the elements. The bachelor suite has an indoor and outdoor fireplace, a patio covered with a reed roof, with outdoor table and chairs. There are cushioned recliners on the lawn behind a low, curved whitewashed wall ending in a pretty blue gate to the beach.

Inside the linen is white and the bed is set back to enjoy the full views of the sea in privacy. The floors are covered in cool, glossy white tiles. There is a spacious glass shower and a well fitted, modern kitchen. An antique wooden wardrobe and wooden desk lend texture, along with wicker armchairs with nautical blue and white striped cushions to complete the maritime effect.

Accommodation Experience:

The magic of this place is its setting overlooking a long, natural beach in Paternoster. We sit outside enjoying sundowners late into the evening. As the sun finally starts setting, we watch spellbound as thousands of white seabirds tessellate their way onto the beach to rest. It takes more than half an hour for the never-ending wave of undulating, twisting, curving birds to land, rise and land again. It is a rare privilege and one has the sense that one could stay here for many weeks on end and not see all that these views have to reveal.

Blackwood Log Cabin, Hout Bay

Wordless prayer

This is one of those places where I walked in and the view simply took my breath away. I moved spellbound towards the deck, while the poor hostess bounced in front of me trying to catch my attention to explain various practicalities. I waved her away with a glazed smile, and opened every one of the glass doors to let the cool forest breeze and astounding mountain views in.

As I walked out onto the deck I breathed deeply, remembering why I have always loved Hout Bay. It is a thickly forested green haven, close to Cape Town, with a pretty, winding, tall-tree-lined road into town. It has easy access to beautiful beaches like Llandudno, Camps Bay, Noordhoek and the spectacular Chapman’s Peak drive. But best of all, it is surrounded by towering mountains, with two perfectly-placed gaps between the mountains – one allowing fresh morning sunlight to spill over the back of Table Mountain, the other parting from the sea side allows late golden light to shine up the valley, where long evenings may be spent enjoying sundowners on the deck while many other parts of Cape Town are already in the shadow of the mountain.

And within this pristine setting I find the perfect Hout Bay accommodation – Blackwood Log Cabin Mountain Retreat. A glamorous yet natural wooden house set high up a hill in the thick forest setting, the house has been designed to maximize the views on every front. The lounge is conservatory style, with surround glass doors opening onto the deck which faces in three directions. Even the bedrooms have ceiling-to-floor glass all round. And of course one of my favourite things – a freestanding bath set up against a bank of windows with forest and mountain views and cool breezes to offset the warm water.

The cabin is a freestanding villa, with a well fitted, full scale kitchen, open plan dining and lounge area. The lounge is decorated with a natural, organic touch, including woven lamps, baskets and hanging rows of flat, pearly shells on the walls. The look is not too earthy-crunchy though, and it is sophisticated and modern, with a clean-lined grey couch and a Kelim rug. There are two private bedrooms and two full bathrooms, one with bath and one with shower. There is an indoor fireplace and outdoor barbeque area, with 3 lovely outdoor seating areas, and a hammock. The lodge has its own private swimming pool.

Accommodation Experience:

I was supposed to be working on a big report which was due at the end of the month. But when a colleague phoned to ask about my progress, my reply was simple – “It’s too beautiful.” She chuckled and left me in peace.

I lay on the hammock on the deck, perfectly shaded from the hot afternoon sun, a cool breeze blowing across me. I wanted to pray, but, like Mary Oliver, "I have not forgotten the Way, but, a little, the way to the Way". My prayer came out in a wordless combination of request and gratitude – a silent and deep thanks for this place and moment, all that had come before and all that was yet to come and for the hope and certainty of a life well lived.

Cape Heritage Hotel, Cape Town

Celebration of local, traditional and modern

This is one of the best city hotels I have ever stayed at. With a penchant for character, I have always been drawn to historic hotels. This is not without its risks – think musty curtains, dodgy plumbing, creaking stairs and dark, pokey rooms. Not this one. I don’t quite know how they have done it, but the Cape Heritage Hotel in Cape Town is the perfect blend of old and new.

One of the oldest buildings in Cape Town, the hotel has been perfectly preserved. The walls are at least half a meter thick, with deep-set sash windows. The original wooden stairs are solid (and cleverly carpeted in the middle). There are fresh, modern fabrics throughout and the décor is both tasteful and creative. Local vibrant South African art celebrates the context and brings colour and texture to every room. Beautiful modern-but-traditional wall-mounted lights fittings and chandelier add elegance and grandeur. The hotel prides itself on its glamorous and spacious bathrooms, which are a delight to experience.

A sumptuous breakfast is served in the sunny courtyard next to the oldest living grape vine in the city.

Accommodation Experience:

Unusually, I choose one of the standard rooms at the Cape Heritage Hotel, because I have fallen in love with the elegant bath placed in the bedroom up against a high window. The bed is equally pretty and superbly comfortable. I wake early and roll over to find a perfectly positioned light fitting within easy reach. I look around and realise that every single luxury feature in the room is well chosen, and perhaps more importantly, functions effectively. There are thoughtful extra touches – a well placed extending mirror in the bathroom, a glass jar with cotton wool, a heated towel rail. I have a moment, like at the end of a great stage performance, where I want to first sit silently nodding in appreciation, then break out in quiet, slow, lengthy applause.