La Residence, Franschhoek

Artful Kindness

In any part of the world, if you follow the artists, they will lead you to places of golden light. This is true of the village of Franschhoek, one of the loveliest places on earth. Artists of all kinds have settled here – photographers, painters, musicians, writers, winemakers, food artists, and of course accommodation artists. And one such artist is Liz Biden, creative genius behind La Residence Luxury Hotel and Villas (http://www.laresidence.co.za/).

Daring and deft, to be recognised as a world class artist, one must have both exceptional skills and be willing to push the boundaries of creativity. Finally at the last minute, it is necessary to reign this verve back in with a 6^th sense of restraint. Each room at La Residence shows a dazzling display of colours, materials and influences which pushes luxury accommodation into a whole new level of opulence. Sumptuous fabrics, bold hues and antiques are contrasted and then perfectly balanced in each of the individually decorated suites. It is for this that the South African Tourism Board should create a six star rating, in honour of Liz Biden’s Royal Portfolio.

I stay in the Frangipani Suite, in the downstairs corner of the East Wing. Here a brave fusion of Far Eastern and French Chateaux style is balanced within a South African setting (don’t try this at home). Fitted throughout in creamy white and grey marble, the calm look is offset by rich red and gold Eastern wall hangings and gold Louis XV chairs. Floating muslin curtains mute the full height curved window and double doors. The raised four-poster bed surrounds one with marble.

But of course I choose this suite for its resplendent Versaille Hall of Mirrors bathroom. “Yes, Liz does like big bathrooms” says my host drily. Indeed I estimate the bathroom to be at least 5 X 6 meters in size. Wall to wall mirrors surround one from a deep double slipper bath placed centrally in the room. Glass double doors frame vineyard and mountain views.

What I love about La Residence:

• There are sensory delights throughout the hotel, with delightful pairing of colours, textures and styles.
• Each suite faces onto mountain and vineyard views and Franschhoek-blue skies.
• The gardens have been cleverly designed for privacy and interest, with green hedges, roses, wisteria and irises.
• Peacock and Guinea Fowl punctuate the stillness. In the early morning an owl softly hoots from the roof.
• High double doors and enormous windows bring the outdoors into every room.
• Splendid bathrooms each have their own unique features and verve.
• Local Charlotte Rhys bath products create fragrant delights.
• La Residence wins both my bath towel and bathrobe award. The white towels are plentiful, thick and soft, heated by warm towel rails. There is a choice of bath robes – a cream, silk summer kimono and a heavier suede-like pale gown.
• The bed is dressed in the finest monogrammed cotton linen.
• There is temperature-controlled under-floor heating throughout the vast suite.
• Gilded mirrors decorate the entrance to the suite, where there is complementary tea, coffee, mini-bar and snacks.
• Crystal chandeliers abound, as does poignant original wall art.
• There is a separate working area with a desk.
• The upstairs suites have high pitched roofs with exposed roof trusses.
• The accomplished chef serves an array of light yet full-flavoured, sophisticated courses.
• The day ends with a turndown service with gifts of handmade Belgian chocolates filled with plums from the estate.

Accommodation experience:

I am a little ashamed to say I have 3 lengthy bathes within the space of my 20 hours at La Residence. But it feels like the personnel here would only be delighted at the compliment. And what impresses me at the end of the day, aside from the general splendour, sumptuous décor and breath-taking scenery, is the simple kindness of the staff at La Residence. I saw one staff member assist a rather brittle elderly gentleman, desperately clinging to his dignity, with care and grace. At dinner the waitrons and sommelier moved in formation to ensure I did not feel lonely. One waitron confessed “I am so lucky to work here. This becomes like your family.” There was a sense of everyone playing their part in putting up an interesting and fun show for a wide range of guests. Their relaxed and caring attitude broke down the self-imposed barriers between guests and soon we were sharing enthusiastic stories of our week’s South African travels.

There is a tangible difference when a team who work in a place like this enjoy their role and appreciate each other’s company and support. This brings a softness to what could otherwise be an intimidating and ostentatious scene, which, let’s admit, brings out the worst posturing in all of us. I saw a sign while shopping in Franschhoek earlier today which said “Be kinder than necessary, for we are all battling our own demons”. Be it the onset of age, past hurts, current failures or struggles with worthiness, we are all insecure little beings at heart. And to this we should only respond with kindness and grace. It is this that I will take away with me from this creative and nourishing stay in this sumtuous place that is a celebration of all that is luxurious hospitality. 

For more information visit  http://www.laresidence.co.za/.

Villa on Joubet, Ladybrand

Small-Town Style

A classical 1925 Eastern Free State sandstone building, Villa on Joubert in Ladybrand is as charming as it is stylish. The Villa is conveniently situated between Johannesburg and Bloemfontein, close to the Lesotho border. The area boasts the beautiful sandstone Maluti Mountains, with open valleys layered with subtle greens and browns.  

I have stayed in both the Taupe Room and the Silver Room and highly recommend either for a bit of Free State French country-style glamour. The rooms are individually decorated, with tasteful tassels, carved furniture, modern cushions and soft throws. Each room has a textured sandstone wall and its own entrance.

What I love about Villa on Joubert:

• The bed and breakfast is in a quintessential Eastern Free State sandstone building with a long verandah out front
• The rooms are well situated in different corners of the house, some with their own entrances onto pretty verandahs
• Individually decorated rooms show off tasteful country verve
• There are warm beds, electric blankets and the rooms are carpeted throughout
• An excellent fresh breakfast is beautifully presented in the sunny breakfast room
• This stay epitomises warm country hospitality and professional hosting

Accommodation Experience:

Some people are born to be hostesses, and Carin at Villa on Joubert is one of these ladies. With an eye for artistic decor, a deft hand in the kitchen and a welcoming ear, she instantly creates a welcoming space which feels like home from home.

I stay for a week at the Villa while working in the area in mid-Winter. Each morning the grass in the valley is so thick with frost it looks like snow. At the end of each day it is with a sense of immense gratitude that I come back to my warm and inviting room. There is something about being in a cosy space in the midst of an intense cold spell and with sub-zero temperatures outside, and I snuggle happily into my room, content to leaf through an enjoyable book until my eyes become too heavy to stay open any longer. 

Greenpark Manor, Fourways, Johannesburg

Family Peace

A rare find – affordable, stylish, tranquil accommodation in a convenient setting in Johannesburg no less. Greenpark Manor is a haven of calm within the busy metropolis of Gauteng. This is achieved by white walls, a thatched roof, and the setting within a beautiful garden. Located in a relaxed security village near Montecasino in Fourways, this bed and breakfast offers elegance at budget rates.

What I love about Greenpark Manor:

• Lush green garden with tall and wide fever trees and indigenous plants which attract a multitude of birds
• White walls, pitched thatched roof, with high, open ceilings and wooden beams
• Well-configured rooms facing different directions, with glass doors to the garden, with private outdoor seating areas
• Minimalist white décor
• Heaters, electric blankets, fans, big flat-screen TV, fridge and kitchenette

Accommodation Experience:

This I did not expect – to be lying in a pool of white percale linen, under a thatched roof, door wide open to views of tall green trees and the sound of birds, in Gauteng. I am particularly self-congratulatory because I managed to find a character stay which impresses the toughest of critics – my family. My father was stressy about the location and traffic. My mother dislikes ostentation of any kind and appreciates a good bargain. My partner eschews frilly, floral, gilded anything. And I of course love character, style and good linen. All in all a tricky combination, yet at Greenpark Manor there is peace in the family and we all sink gratefully into the experience of this characterful stay.