Birkenhead House, Hermanus

My Happy Place

I must confess I lose any modicum of professional objectivity when I enter one of the Royal Portfolio establishments. It has to do with the perfect combination of high art décor, extreme luxury combined with personable warmth, which is balanced with respect for privacy. 

My royal welcome at Birkenhead House (www.birkenheadhouse.co.za) starts with a choice of pink champagne, complementary wine, snacks, tea, coffee, beautifully glass-bottled water and a gift notebook. My host gives a gracious tour of the hotel, then sensing the tone, leaves me enthralled to explore on my own.

  

Personal bias aside, I notice that every guest I encounter has fallen under the Birkenhead spell, and couples wander around with glazed looks and happy grins. We gather spontaneously at the pool on the cliff edge to watch a school of dolphins swim freely by. Birkenhead House has prime location for dolphin and whale watching and is situated right in the floral rich fynbos region of Hermanus in the Western Cape. With a higher diversity of species than any place on earth, the renowned floral kingdom is accessible simply by walking out the door and up the mountain behind the guesthouse. In front of the hotel is a pretty swimming beach, from which there is access to a 5km coastal boardwalk into town where a complementary shuttle can collect guests for the return.

Guests may choose to stay in the front, middle or upper house, and each faces views of sea or mountains. I choose to stay in room 6 for its wrap-around verandah with both ocean and mountain views. The vast suite has high shuttered windows and three sets of wide glass double doors. The cool, thick, marbled floors are covered with an antique teal carpet. Drama is created with an oversized carved headboard in dark wood, while zebra skin coverings add African flair. Liz Biden’s signature chandelier and oversized everything bring glamour to the scheme.

The characteristically expansive bathroom has a freestanding Victorian-style bath facing double doors and it is set up against a high sash window with mountain views.

There is underfloor heating and air-conditioning which may be set to one’s own comfort. Every traveler convenience has been thoughtfully provided, including mosquito repellant, sunblock and swimming towels. A large flat screen television offers DSTV and there is a DVD library.  

Accommodation Experience

A row of 17 candles has been lit to show the way to dinner. A creative four course menu, designed by a talented young chef, includes a snazzy take on a Nicoise salad using seared tuna. We are offered home baked bread, an intensely flavoured mushroom soup, fresh sole or top quality beef and a salted caramel crème brule.

I return to a candle-lit room and don the silk gown and climb happily into the fine cotton mongrammed linen. The hotel is quiet and only the sounds of the waves and a gentle fountain come into my suite. I open my double doors to the sea. Though I am tired I am reluctant to let go of this perfect experience. I store up each sense, from the cool breeze coming off the sea, to the soft bedding, to the sophisticated perfumed smells. I am fortifying myself against the stress which will be there for me when I leave this serene haven. I comfort myself that I will be able to draw on this memory for many years to come, picturing myself back here in this happy place until one day I do return to be mesmerised again under their pleasing magic.

Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa

Detoxifying Treatment

There are many reasons to choose to stay at the Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa (www.12apostleshotel.com) – the perfect proximity and distance from fabulous Cape Town, the “nothing is too much to ask” service, the world class spa or the fine dining Azure restaurant. It is the place to see and be seen and I see guests arriving like movie stars in convertibles and limousines. I of course choose this hotel for its spectacular setting, discretely distanced from surrounding built up areas, overlooking a natural coastline and backing up against the Twelve Apostles mountain range.

I arrive early and wander around, professional staff diving out of my way as I approach. I ask directions to the pool. “Which one?” my host asks. There are three swimming pools – a natural rock pool with mountain views, an infinity pool which overlooks the sea and the spa pool set within a cool white cave. There are also several bars and dining areas and the Leopard Bar has a dark cigar lounge feel on one side, with breath-taking sea views and al fresco dining tables on the other side. I am a little overwhelmed by the choices and find a quiet table in the shade overlooking the infinity pool to settle in and do some writing before my spa treatment in the calm and sophisticated spa.

My suite is heavenly, with a sunken lounge and raised bed which looks out onto the ocean on two sides. A dramatic wall of glass provides instant access to the dark blue sea views. As expected from one of the internationally successful Red Carnation Hotels (www.redcarnationhotels.com), the decor is elegant - both timeless and modern, with beautifully upholstered chairs and couch under a creative mirror. Fresh fruit and a white orchid are placed on the lounge table, together with a choice of magazines and books. The bed is dressed in silky white linen with a gold triple satin-stitched oxford trim - reaching new thread-count heights from which, I suspect, there is no return. In the spacious tiled bathroom there are quality beauty products from the spa. A soft robe and beach bag are provided for use in the suite, spa or pool.

Accommodation Experience:

I am staying at the Twelve Apostles on a “detox” package. I am not sure what I am detoxing from, aside from perhaps my rational self. Apart from the heavenly detoxifying Rasul treatment, I live it up, with popcorn and a milkshake to go with a DVD, delivered to my suite through room service. I page through a plethora of magazines and make the most of the free wifi. The weather is unsettled, as am I. I am running away from myself and to this aim there are plenty of fun diversions to be had. I excitedly flick through them all.

Finally I settle into my glorious bed to try and quieten down. From this vantage point I look down directly onto the ocean. I watch squalls move haphazardly across the water and I let the sea do its work on my soul. At first it is disturbing and uncomfortable. But I am learning to stay with it and see the storm through to the other side. The sun sets and the moon rises over the sea, still thrashing. I sleep little, spellbound by its restless beauty. Gradually towards morning the sea finally stills and there is a dawn hush where everything feels possible and hopeful. Instead of escaping from myself I feel a gentle coming home to myself, and I leave a healthier version of myself, cleansed of chaos and unrest.

Strandloper Boutique Hotel, Paternoster

A New Brand of Luxury

Here’s an idea: Pack yourself an elegant weekend bag (include camera), hop on a flight to Cape Town, pick up a snazzy little convertible, and head up the West coast for a weekend of spectacular scenery, fabulous food and inspiring accommodation. But beware – though there is much to do and see to distract oneself, the soulful nature of the West Coast will catch up with you in the end, to reconnect you with your true self. 

Working too hard for too long, I finally plan such a trip. Being in a demanding, stressy frame of mind, I know exactly what I want – a crisp white space (soulful rather than sterile), with doors opening right onto the beach, in a natural place of great beauty. Oh and of course I must have a heavenly bath with sea views. Not a lot to ask really. I search with intensity, unwilling to compromise on any one of these stringent criteria. And so when I open the website of the Strandloper Boutique Hotel (www.strandloperocean.com ), I give a tight little gasp and set about determinedly to get what I wanted.

I had been expecting the highest quality finesse and impeccable standards of service, and the Strandloper Boutique Hotel did not fail to deliver on this score. But what I had not expected was a soft honesty that came from the organic touches in the décor, the traditional blue-grey and white buildings of the area, the white endless beaches and the turquoise seas.

Aptly named after the original beach walker inhabitants, the luxury hotel is set at the far end of the town of Paternoster and at the edge of a vast natural beach and fynbos nature reserve. Standalone suites, more like individual villas, face outwards towards the sea or open grasslands. Rimless glass doors fold back invisbly or wooden sliding doors recess into the adjacent walls to connect the interior and exterior. Thick whitewashed walls with deep-set shuttered windows and grey-blue painted frames give a Cycladean Greek Islands feel while honouring the traditional fisher cottage architecture of the region. White muslin curtains catch the gentle sea breeze.

The suites have cleverly integrated luxuries, including air-conditioning, Nespresso coffee machines, and heated towel rails. Heavenly wide baths and outdoor showers make the most of the ocean and nature views. In my spacious suite there are two indoor seating areas and a full scale dining table. There are two outdoor seating areas, one perfectly placed sundowner table and chairs, as well as two cushioned recliners.  

The service is professional and friendly, and the meals are everything that one would ask of a seaside luxury resort in the food capital of the West Coast. The accomplished chef makes the most of local produce - seafood of course, but also local olives, cheeses and sun-dried fruit.

Accommodation Experience:

There is a new brand of luxury accommodation emerging. It has less to do with ostentatious bling and more to do with soulful contact with nature. Think full height glass windows and doors, outdoor seating areas to make the most of morning and evening sun, understated and organic décor, smooth floors and beachfront settings. This is barefoot luxury at its best.

From my ocean-front suite at the Strandloper Boutique Hotel, I sit in bed with the sounds, smells and sea breeze within touching distance. It is almost dawn and the setting moon spills over the sea. A layer of mist gradually lifts off the ocean and the curl of the waves begin to catch the rising sun. I feel a bit foolish about my intense and suspicious demands and allow an interior softening to the loveliness of this place. 

While a place like this creatively makes the most of its stunning setting, I realize one cannot create or control such moments, only gratefully receive them as they are given. The great Persian poet Hafiz writes:

There are so many gifts

Still unopened from your birthday

There are so many handcrafted presents

That have been sent to you by God.

La Residence, Franschhoek

Artful Kindness

In any part of the world, if you follow the artists, they will lead you to places of golden light. This is true of the village of Franschhoek, one of the loveliest places on earth. Artists of all kinds have settled here – photographers, painters, musicians, writers, winemakers, food artists, and of course accommodation artists. And one such artist is Liz Biden, creative genius behind La Residence Luxury Hotel and Villas (http://www.laresidence.co.za/).

Daring and deft, to be recognised as a world class artist, one must have both exceptional skills and be willing to push the boundaries of creativity. Finally at the last minute, it is necessary to reign this verve back in with a 6^th sense of restraint. Each room at La Residence shows a dazzling display of colours, materials and influences which pushes luxury accommodation into a whole new level of opulence. Sumptuous fabrics, bold hues and antiques are contrasted and then perfectly balanced in each of the individually decorated suites. It is for this that the South African Tourism Board should create a six star rating, in honour of Liz Biden’s Royal Portfolio.

I stay in the Frangipani Suite, in the downstairs corner of the East Wing. Here a brave fusion of Far Eastern and French Chateaux style is balanced within a South African setting (don’t try this at home). Fitted throughout in creamy white and grey marble, the calm look is offset by rich red and gold Eastern wall hangings and gold Louis XV chairs. Floating muslin curtains mute the full height curved window and double doors. The raised four-poster bed surrounds one with marble.

But of course I choose this suite for its resplendent Versaille Hall of Mirrors bathroom. “Yes, Liz does like big bathrooms” says my host drily. Indeed I estimate the bathroom to be at least 5 X 6 meters in size. Wall to wall mirrors surround one from a deep double slipper bath placed centrally in the room. Glass double doors frame vineyard and mountain views.

What I love about La Residence:

• There are sensory delights throughout the hotel, with delightful pairing of colours, textures and styles.
• Each suite faces onto mountain and vineyard views and Franschhoek-blue skies.
• The gardens have been cleverly designed for privacy and interest, with green hedges, roses, wisteria and irises.
• Peacock and Guinea Fowl punctuate the stillness. In the early morning an owl softly hoots from the roof.
• High double doors and enormous windows bring the outdoors into every room.
• Splendid bathrooms each have their own unique features and verve.
• Local Charlotte Rhys bath products create fragrant delights.
• La Residence wins both my bath towel and bathrobe award. The white towels are plentiful, thick and soft, heated by warm towel rails. There is a choice of bath robes – a cream, silk summer kimono and a heavier suede-like pale gown.
• The bed is dressed in the finest monogrammed cotton linen.
• There is temperature-controlled under-floor heating throughout the vast suite.
• Gilded mirrors decorate the entrance to the suite, where there is complementary tea, coffee, mini-bar and snacks.
• Crystal chandeliers abound, as does poignant original wall art.
• There is a separate working area with a desk.
• The upstairs suites have high pitched roofs with exposed roof trusses.
• The accomplished chef serves an array of light yet full-flavoured, sophisticated courses.
• The day ends with a turndown service with gifts of handmade Belgian chocolates filled with plums from the estate.

Accommodation experience:

I am a little ashamed to say I have 3 lengthy bathes within the space of my 20 hours at La Residence. But it feels like the personnel here would only be delighted at the compliment. And what impresses me at the end of the day, aside from the general splendour, sumptuous décor and breath-taking scenery, is the simple kindness of the staff at La Residence. I saw one staff member assist a rather brittle elderly gentleman, desperately clinging to his dignity, with care and grace. At dinner the waitrons and sommelier moved in formation to ensure I did not feel lonely. One waitron confessed “I am so lucky to work here. This becomes like your family.” There was a sense of everyone playing their part in putting up an interesting and fun show for a wide range of guests. Their relaxed and caring attitude broke down the self-imposed barriers between guests and soon we were sharing enthusiastic stories of our week’s South African travels.

There is a tangible difference when a team who work in a place like this enjoy their role and appreciate each other’s company and support. This brings a softness to what could otherwise be an intimidating and ostentatious scene, which, let’s admit, brings out the worst posturing in all of us. I saw a sign while shopping in Franschhoek earlier today which said “Be kinder than necessary, for we are all battling our own demons”. Be it the onset of age, past hurts, current failures or struggles with worthiness, we are all insecure little beings at heart. And to this we should only respond with kindness and grace. It is this that I will take away with me from this creative and nourishing stay in this sumtuous place that is a celebration of all that is luxurious hospitality. 

For more information visit  http://www.laresidence.co.za/.