Play of light

We drove all the way across the country, heading straight for fish 'n chips at Lambert's Bay. And found the perfect West Coast accommodation accompaniment at Oppiduin, Grootvlei. 

This shabby chic beach house is as on-the-beach as it gets, with dramatic curved architecture making the most of the vast views onto ocean and surrounding nature. Expansive glass windows follow the curves of every room. Local materials such as shells, driftwood and beach sand have been used, creating interest and a play of light which mirrors the natural world outside beautifully. I do love a creative space which celebrates its context, for me the essence of travel, which takes one outside one's routine and familiarity. 

Our suite is as spacious as that view, with a fireplace in the open plan lounge and bedroom. Outside the wind is howling, but from our protected position we are almost unaware, except for the sound of it singing in the roof above the shower. It almost sounds spiritual. 

Still, I can't stop dashing outside throughout the long sunset to take photos as the golden rays light up new facets of the decor and architecture. I return from each outing windswept and glowing. 

What a privilege to witness so many slow sunsets and dawns in so many beautiful spaces - that was the mission of this trip after all. I hope it brings new appreciation to my life at home, not simply the struggle to sleep and wake and work. A healthier rhythm must be possible, or at least this is the hope a holiday in a place like this offers.

Oppiduin, Grootvlei Guest Farm

Birkenhead House, Hermanus

My Happy Place

I must confess I lose any modicum of professional objectivity when I enter one of the Royal Portfolio establishments. It has to do with the perfect combination of high art décor, extreme luxury combined with personable warmth, which is balanced with respect for privacy. 

My royal welcome at Birkenhead House (www.birkenheadhouse.co.za) starts with a choice of pink champagne, complementary wine, snacks, tea, coffee, beautifully glass-bottled water and a gift notebook. My host gives a gracious tour of the hotel, then sensing the tone, leaves me enthralled to explore on my own.

  

Personal bias aside, I notice that every guest I encounter has fallen under the Birkenhead spell, and couples wander around with glazed looks and happy grins. We gather spontaneously at the pool on the cliff edge to watch a school of dolphins swim freely by. Birkenhead House has prime location for dolphin and whale watching and is situated right in the floral rich fynbos region of Hermanus in the Western Cape. With a higher diversity of species than any place on earth, the renowned floral kingdom is accessible simply by walking out the door and up the mountain behind the guesthouse. In front of the hotel is a pretty swimming beach, from which there is access to a 5km coastal boardwalk into town where a complementary shuttle can collect guests for the return.

Guests may choose to stay in the front, middle or upper house, and each faces views of sea or mountains. I choose to stay in room 6 for its wrap-around verandah with both ocean and mountain views. The vast suite has high shuttered windows and three sets of wide glass double doors. The cool, thick, marbled floors are covered with an antique teal carpet. Drama is created with an oversized carved headboard in dark wood, while zebra skin coverings add African flair. Liz Biden’s signature chandelier and oversized everything bring glamour to the scheme.

The characteristically expansive bathroom has a freestanding Victorian-style bath facing double doors and it is set up against a high sash window with mountain views.

There is underfloor heating and air-conditioning which may be set to one’s own comfort. Every traveler convenience has been thoughtfully provided, including mosquito repellant, sunblock and swimming towels. A large flat screen television offers DSTV and there is a DVD library.  

Accommodation Experience

A row of 17 candles has been lit to show the way to dinner. A creative four course menu, designed by a talented young chef, includes a snazzy take on a Nicoise salad using seared tuna. We are offered home baked bread, an intensely flavoured mushroom soup, fresh sole or top quality beef and a salted caramel crème brule.

I return to a candle-lit room and don the silk gown and climb happily into the fine cotton mongrammed linen. The hotel is quiet and only the sounds of the waves and a gentle fountain come into my suite. I open my double doors to the sea. Though I am tired I am reluctant to let go of this perfect experience. I store up each sense, from the cool breeze coming off the sea, to the soft bedding, to the sophisticated perfumed smells. I am fortifying myself against the stress which will be there for me when I leave this serene haven. I comfort myself that I will be able to draw on this memory for many years to come, picturing myself back here in this happy place until one day I do return to be mesmerised again under their pleasing magic.

The Old Orchard, Kokstad

Not all who wander are lost

There is something about being close to water which is good for the soul. It is especially lovely being right down at the level of water, a feeling of floating with the ducks. Add to this experience a log cabin with tasteful décor and you have the makings of instant happiness. This is what I find outside the unassuming little town of Kokstad on the border of the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal.

The Old Orchard is a busy little bed and breakfast situated a few kilometers outside the town, on a farm on the R56 to Matatiele. The lakeside log cabins are clustered on one side of the lake, near a restaurant and plunge pool, and they all overlook open hills and mountains beyond. The cottages each have a deck which extends out right over the water, where one can watch ducks move underneath and weavers building nests in the reeds alongside.

Inside, the thatched log cabins are cosy and pretty, with upholstered wingback armchairs and natural décor. There is white linen on the comfortable beds which face the water and hillside views.

Accommodation Experience:

We have travelled far and arrive tired but pleased about our choice of stay, instantly refreshed by the green surrounds. We settle in just before a dramatic summer berg storm. From our waterfront vantage point we enjoy watching the storm move across the skies. The downpour comes in sheets across the water and feels much closer for our setting. We hunker down with the birds, who find refuge under our deck, and we are grateful for our safe spot from which to witness the impressive display. The storm quickly passes and soon the birds are out again as if nothing has happened. A cup of tea and a good book later and we spend an enjoyable afternoon alternating between reading and watching the water birds going about their duck-like business. Whether it is the cleansing storm that took our minds off our troubles, or the watery setting or simply watching nature being natural, we find ourselves deeply refreshed and the happiest versions of our travelling selves.

St James on Venice, Morningside, Durban

Elegant Number

This is an elegant number – as classy as its name - the St James on Venice.  The guesthouse is a grand double storey building with curved balconies all around, glossy wooden floors and attractive finishings. It is well situated in breezy Morningside, Durban.

My room is decorated in soft grey, from the silvery headboard, to the damask-style wallpaper, cushions, blinds and grey suede couch. There are matching brushed silver wall lights. In one corner stands a handsome shaker-style wardrobe, while on the other end of the suite is a desk by the lovely bay window. Around the corner there is a modern, clear glass, spacious shower in an open-plan bathroom, with a separate, enclosed toilet.

Air-conditioning, large flat-screen televisions, a restaurant and active reception make this a convenient business stay. The guesthouse is set amongst established trees, with plenty of secure parking space and 24-hour security.

Accommodation Experience:

For a couch so stylish, it is surprisingly comfortable. I sink gratefully into it and I find I am perfectly placed within a private nook in the bay windows on both sides of this corner of my room, where I wile away the evening. There are happy sounds of staff from the kitchen and reception area, dogs barking across the road, and I enjoy the feeling of being part of it all and yet resting hidden in peace. The restrained but fashionable décor adds to the feeling of calm luxury. After a tiring day of work at the end of a busy year, I find this space restorative and inspiring. For a place so elegant, I have an inelegant fleeting image of myself holding onto this couch in the morning, being forcibly removed while begging to be allowed to stay and not have to go back to work.

The Neuk Guesthouse, Morningside, Durban

My Kind of Place

This is my kind of place – a bold fusion of French chateaux style in a traditional Cape Dutch manor house. More boutique hotel than guesthouse, the Neuk has individually decorated rooms done up with sumptuous flair. A gracious building of interesting architecture, it is conveniently located in the suburb of Morningside in Durban.

Surprisingly affordable for such plush luxury, the Neuk has every possible traveler convenience – air-conditioning, heated towel rails, large flat-screen televisions and plentiful plug points with varied adaptors. The hosting is friendly and professional and the hosts are enthusiastic about their corner of vibey Durban.

But it is the dramatic décor which is the X-factor that sets this guesthouse apart. Decadent wallpaper, chandeliers, intricate wall-mounted lamps, gilded mirrors and antique carved furniture grace every room. Silky linen is matched to each colour scheme. The spacious rooms have original parquet wooden flooring and pressed ceilings, with soft matt flagstone tiling in the bathrooms.

Accommodation Experience

I arrive early and am given free reign to view the house, and every room is lovely. Each room has unique features and has been lavished with decorative detail. I especially like the smaller, cosy lounge with its warm red and pink hues.

It is a tough choice for me between the Palm Room and the French Room, but eventually I choose the Palm Room for its outdoor location. It is almost a freestanding cottage, overlooking the pool and pretty garden. It is quiet within the walled garden, and I don’t hear any sounds of traffic even with the double doors of the cottage wide open to catch the breeze. Inside there are two antique French-style beds, a grand wardrobe, elegant desk and lounge chair. The modern bath is one of the longest I have ever had the pleasure of relaxing in - I am able to lie down, full length under water, counting my many blessings at finding such a calm haven.

Villa on Joubet, Ladybrand

Small-Town Style

A classical 1925 Eastern Free State sandstone building, Villa on Joubert in Ladybrand is as charming as it is stylish. The Villa is conveniently situated between Johannesburg and Bloemfontein, close to the Lesotho border. The area boasts the beautiful sandstone Maluti Mountains, with open valleys layered with subtle greens and browns.  

I have stayed in both the Taupe Room and the Silver Room and highly recommend either for a bit of Free State French country-style glamour. The rooms are individually decorated, with tasteful tassels, carved furniture, modern cushions and soft throws. Each room has a textured sandstone wall and its own entrance.

What I love about Villa on Joubert:

• The bed and breakfast is in a quintessential Eastern Free State sandstone building with a long verandah out front
• The rooms are well situated in different corners of the house, some with their own entrances onto pretty verandahs
• Individually decorated rooms show off tasteful country verve
• There are warm beds, electric blankets and the rooms are carpeted throughout
• An excellent fresh breakfast is beautifully presented in the sunny breakfast room
• This stay epitomises warm country hospitality and professional hosting

Accommodation Experience:

Some people are born to be hostesses, and Carin at Villa on Joubert is one of these ladies. With an eye for artistic decor, a deft hand in the kitchen and a welcoming ear, she instantly creates a welcoming space which feels like home from home.

I stay for a week at the Villa while working in the area in mid-Winter. Each morning the grass in the valley is so thick with frost it looks like snow. At the end of each day it is with a sense of immense gratitude that I come back to my warm and inviting room. There is something about being in a cosy space in the midst of an intense cold spell and with sub-zero temperatures outside, and I snuggle happily into my room, content to leaf through an enjoyable book until my eyes become too heavy to stay open any longer.