Petersfield Country Cottages, Cederberg

This one is mine

As you can well imagine, my partner gets quite vexed by my adventurous accommodation spirit. So I was more than a little nervous to announce (as late as I dared) that our next stay was a farm cottage without electricity. With a seething technophile by my side, I tried to concentrate on navigating the bumpy, dusty entrance to Petersfield farm, while sending up a silent prayer that the place was not too rustic.

With the setting sun making golden the surrounding Cederberg cliffs, the cameras were out before even unpacking the car and all was forgiven. We stayed in De Veepos, one of the characterful country cottages on the Petersfield Farm near Citrusdal. The farm is about two hours North of Cape Town, conveniently off the N7, but it feels miles away from the highway. Silence descends, as does a slight chill as one realises things are about to become very real, as this place is the truth in terms of an escape from the everyday avoidant urban frenzy.

What I love about Petersfield Country Cottages:

• The cottages are nestled in the foothills of the spectacular Cederberg mountains
• The cottages are spaced far apart, not even in sight or sound of one another or the main farmhouse
• The gardens of the cottages celebrate the local Cederberg rocks and fynbos
• Fireplaces, gas lamps, wooden beams and double wooden and glass doors
• White linen and mosquito nets, with soft beds makes this a surprisingly non-rustic character stay
• Deep blue-grey private swimming pools
• The outdoor bath, surrounded by fynbos and views of the mountains

Accommodation experience

Despite the chill in the air, I was doggedly determined to enjoy the novelty of an outdoor bath. I waited until the sun was well up in the sky, and ran a hot bubble bath. I undressed as quickly as possible and immersed myself in the warmth of the water, enjoying the contrast with the cool air. Nothing quite beats the feeling of lying in water under big skies, surrounded by views of mountains and fynbos and I felt a gentle coming home to myself while my soul lifted in greeting to the beauty of such a day and the kindness of being in such a place.

I was reminded of the Hafiz poem “This one is mine”, which goes like this:

Someone put

You on a slave block

And the unreal bought

You.

Now I keep coming to your owner

Saying,

“This one is mine.”

You often overhear us talking

And this can make your heart leap

With excitement.

Don’t worry,

I wont let sadness

Possess you.

I will gladly borrow all the gold

I need

To get you

Back.

The Old Village, Citrusdal

Gentle grounding

It is always surprising how quickly things become rural even when leaving the bigger South African cities like Cape Town. I was excited to be heading North from the Mother City, on the N7 towards the West Coast and Cederberg Mountains. Under 3 hours from the airport, following the simple directions “turn right at Piekenierskloofpass”, an old world awaits.

On the 1795 Modderfontein Farm, The Old Village at Citrusdal offers a collection of beautifully preserved self-catering cottages. With whitewashed stone walls, the deep windows enhance the crisp light of the Cederberg open skies. The decor shows off the original wood features by being simple and calm, making effective use of subtle country classics like matching florals and stripes. Touches like antique relics and green painted window shutters complete the nostalgic effect.

Of course I chose to stay in The Smithy, the oldest house in the valley. The softness of the cottage surprised me, with pretty beds, peaceful views and spotless bathrooms. The marvellous long barn-style lounge has a raised fireplace at one end, complete with wonky wooden beams. Comfortable wingback chairs and sofa make for long evenings by the fire with a bottle of Sherry and good company.

What I love about The Old Village, Citrusdal

• The commitment to the preservation of authentic and historical features and original buildings
• Thick, whitewashed stone walls, thatched roofs, green window shutters and wooden ceiling beams
• Understated and stylish country decor
• The experience of staying on a working farm, complete with donkeys and tractor
• The convenient location, just off the N7, but without sounds of traffic and a feeling of being at a remote country retreat

Accommodation experience:

It can be difficult to transition straight from a hectic work life into a holiday space. And for me characterful accommodation provides a sensory transition into relaxation. This is what I found at The Old Village in Citrusdal. I had just received some disturbing feedback about a report that I had submitted, and I felt uncomfortable in my own skin as I squirmed hard to escape the present. Yet the authentic buildings drew me out of my chaotic head space into their physical and grounding presence. As I wandered around the village cottages I could feel their wise ancient calm seep away my humiliation, leaving only a hint of sadness. The word humiliation has its roots in “humus”, to be grounded, and I found myself in a kind and comforting place to soften this fall.