Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa

Detoxifying Treatment

There are many reasons to choose to stay at the Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa (www.12apostleshotel.com) – the perfect proximity and distance from fabulous Cape Town, the “nothing is too much to ask” service, the world class spa or the fine dining Azure restaurant. It is the place to see and be seen and I see guests arriving like movie stars in convertibles and limousines. I of course choose this hotel for its spectacular setting, discretely distanced from surrounding built up areas, overlooking a natural coastline and backing up against the Twelve Apostles mountain range.

I arrive early and wander around, professional staff diving out of my way as I approach. I ask directions to the pool. “Which one?” my host asks. There are three swimming pools – a natural rock pool with mountain views, an infinity pool which overlooks the sea and the spa pool set within a cool white cave. There are also several bars and dining areas and the Leopard Bar has a dark cigar lounge feel on one side, with breath-taking sea views and al fresco dining tables on the other side. I am a little overwhelmed by the choices and find a quiet table in the shade overlooking the infinity pool to settle in and do some writing before my spa treatment in the calm and sophisticated spa.

My suite is heavenly, with a sunken lounge and raised bed which looks out onto the ocean on two sides. A dramatic wall of glass provides instant access to the dark blue sea views. As expected from one of the internationally successful Red Carnation Hotels (www.redcarnationhotels.com), the decor is elegant - both timeless and modern, with beautifully upholstered chairs and couch under a creative mirror. Fresh fruit and a white orchid are placed on the lounge table, together with a choice of magazines and books. The bed is dressed in silky white linen with a gold triple satin-stitched oxford trim - reaching new thread-count heights from which, I suspect, there is no return. In the spacious tiled bathroom there are quality beauty products from the spa. A soft robe and beach bag are provided for use in the suite, spa or pool.

Accommodation Experience:

I am staying at the Twelve Apostles on a “detox” package. I am not sure what I am detoxing from, aside from perhaps my rational self. Apart from the heavenly detoxifying Rasul treatment, I live it up, with popcorn and a milkshake to go with a DVD, delivered to my suite through room service. I page through a plethora of magazines and make the most of the free wifi. The weather is unsettled, as am I. I am running away from myself and to this aim there are plenty of fun diversions to be had. I excitedly flick through them all.

Finally I settle into my glorious bed to try and quieten down. From this vantage point I look down directly onto the ocean. I watch squalls move haphazardly across the water and I let the sea do its work on my soul. At first it is disturbing and uncomfortable. But I am learning to stay with it and see the storm through to the other side. The sun sets and the moon rises over the sea, still thrashing. I sleep little, spellbound by its restless beauty. Gradually towards morning the sea finally stills and there is a dawn hush where everything feels possible and hopeful. Instead of escaping from myself I feel a gentle coming home to myself, and I leave a healthier version of myself, cleansed of chaos and unrest.

The Cottage at Montpellier

Making it our own

Sometimes staying in a guesthouse or a cottage feels like an invasion of someone else’s space. We felt instantly possessive over the cottage at Montpellier. It felt like our own private villa, a holiday cottage where we could relax and be completely ourselves. The privacy was lovely and we basked in the solitude and stillness. Set up against what felt like our very own mountain, the cottage has plentiful double doors, with views right up the mountain on one side, or down the across the valley to the mountains beyond. The interiors are perfectly complementary to the setting, themed in a French country farmhouse style. There is a constant play of texture and light.

In the open plan lounge there is a grand fireplace, a large comfortable creamy couch and wingback chair, hessian text-printed cushions, thick woven grey rugs and koir matting. There is an oversized basket with firewood. The kitchen has a wooden dining table and chairs, and is well equipped with a Nespresso machine, full sized fridge and oven. The butler’s sink and cool grey screed flooring contributes to the Provencial theme while the sun streams in from every angle.

The cottage has its own private swimming pool with views to open the heart. Grey-green olive trees and rich orange rock set the palette for the exteriors and interiors. There are two bedrooms, one with twin single beds and one with a King size bed. Each bedroom has covered headboards, one in apricot with floral cushions to mirror the vibrant exterior stone. Every piece of wooden furniture and lighting has been tastefully selected to match the country theme. The windows and doors are shuttered. There is air-conditioning in both bedrooms and the beds are dressed in cool white cotton linen. 

Each bedroom is en-suite, the main bedroom with a freestanding Victorian bath set up against a window with views straight up the mountain. Both bathrooms have an enormous walk-in shower. 

Accommodation Experience

Despite the many fabulous restaurants in the area, we decide to eat in, or should I say, al fresco. We lay the small, round table by the pool with linen napkins and candles, and we fill our wine glasses with a chilled complimentary Chenin Blanc. It has been a hot day, and it is a relief to see the sun set and feel the cool breeze come off the mountain. As we watch the moon rise over the pool and hear an owl gently hoot from the grove of olive trees below, we congratulate ourselves on staying in. It has meant participating in the creation of a romantic memory which I know we will draw on for many years to come.

Temenos Retreat Centre, McGregor

The Little Way

I am a little unimpressed by ascetic spirituality, which I am sure says more about me than others. So it is with a sigh of deep relief when I find here another form of spirituality entirely. It is a spirituality that celebrates the green, the soft and the aesthetic. This is found in the village of McGregor, home to artists and healers, as one enters into the hushed walled garden of Temenos Retreat Centre.

 

The garden rooms are designed in a series of low-walled and hedged spaces, each with a unique character. There are statues, water features, a labyrinth and well placed benches. A fusion of icons has been used throughout and a circle of marked stones encourages the retreatant to take up the seat of different religions with open-mindedness and respect. Each section of the garden has a unique meditation room, a quiet space for prayer and reflection. “The Little Way” is a lovely chapel, while a dark meditation room called “the Well” is a sunken sacred space with the gentle sound of trickling water. Temore, the “inner temple of the heart”, encourages one to “turn within”, with blue walls, stained-glass windows and mosaic inlaid tiled floors.

Beautiful food is served in Tebaldis Restaurant, which "celebrates the passion of good food and wine". Accommodation is offered in Georgian or thatched self-catering cottages, referenced to mystics and hermitages, with names like Assisi, Carmel, Subiaco, Liseux, Iona and Avila. The cottages, with deep-set windows and green shutters, are nestled into the lush gardens. Each cottage has stable doors opening onto private pergola patios with outdoor seating areas. Inside there are fireplaces for the winter and Tuscan-style cool terra cotta tiles for the summer. Wooden cottage furniture, a Kelim rug, mosquito nets and white linen complete the effect. The apricot, pink and green floral curtains in our cottage perfectly mirror the autumn vines of the pergola outside the window.

Accommodation Experience:

Earlier in the day I had spotted a prayer room which appealed to me, and in the late afternoon I made my way there alone. I had imagined exactly how serene and spiritual I would feel. But after sitting in the lovely space for a while I felt neither holy nor peaceful. Instead I felt restless, sad and lost, plagued by what David Whyte calls “those tiny but frightening questions.” The privacy of the space enabled me to stay with my vulnerability and I sat through the panic to see where it would lead me. It was an interesting experience to taste the feelings, instead of distracting myself with action or entertainment. And of course, once I let go of my expectations and passed through the intense feelings, I did find myself grounded in a deep sense of peace and certainty that all would be, and already was, well.

Every time I enter into such a space it is an invitation to renew my trust in the process of silence and solitude, in an acceptance of the little way. Stripped down to a seed, awaiting transformation, which somehow never comes with a bang, but a gentle breaking open to let the light in.

The Old Orchard, Kokstad

Not all who wander are lost

There is something about being close to water which is good for the soul. It is especially lovely being right down at the level of water, a feeling of floating with the ducks. Add to this experience a log cabin with tasteful décor and you have the makings of instant happiness. This is what I find outside the unassuming little town of Kokstad on the border of the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal.

The Old Orchard is a busy little bed and breakfast situated a few kilometers outside the town, on a farm on the R56 to Matatiele. The lakeside log cabins are clustered on one side of the lake, near a restaurant and plunge pool, and they all overlook open hills and mountains beyond. The cottages each have a deck which extends out right over the water, where one can watch ducks move underneath and weavers building nests in the reeds alongside.

Inside, the thatched log cabins are cosy and pretty, with upholstered wingback armchairs and natural décor. There is white linen on the comfortable beds which face the water and hillside views.

Accommodation Experience:

We have travelled far and arrive tired but pleased about our choice of stay, instantly refreshed by the green surrounds. We settle in just before a dramatic summer berg storm. From our waterfront vantage point we enjoy watching the storm move across the skies. The downpour comes in sheets across the water and feels much closer for our setting. We hunker down with the birds, who find refuge under our deck, and we are grateful for our safe spot from which to witness the impressive display. The storm quickly passes and soon the birds are out again as if nothing has happened. A cup of tea and a good book later and we spend an enjoyable afternoon alternating between reading and watching the water birds going about their duck-like business. Whether it is the cleansing storm that took our minds off our troubles, or the watery setting or simply watching nature being natural, we find ourselves deeply refreshed and the happiest versions of our travelling selves.