Play of light

We drove all the way across the country, heading straight for fish 'n chips at Lambert's Bay. And found the perfect West Coast accommodation accompaniment at Oppiduin, Grootvlei. 

This shabby chic beach house is as on-the-beach as it gets, with dramatic curved architecture making the most of the vast views onto ocean and surrounding nature. Expansive glass windows follow the curves of every room. Local materials such as shells, driftwood and beach sand have been used, creating interest and a play of light which mirrors the natural world outside beautifully. I do love a creative space which celebrates its context, for me the essence of travel, which takes one outside one's routine and familiarity. 

Our suite is as spacious as that view, with a fireplace in the open plan lounge and bedroom. Outside the wind is howling, but from our protected position we are almost unaware, except for the sound of it singing in the roof above the shower. It almost sounds spiritual. 

Still, I can't stop dashing outside throughout the long sunset to take photos as the golden rays light up new facets of the decor and architecture. I return from each outing windswept and glowing. 

What a privilege to witness so many slow sunsets and dawns in so many beautiful spaces - that was the mission of this trip after all. I hope it brings new appreciation to my life at home, not simply the struggle to sleep and wake and work. A healthier rhythm must be possible, or at least this is the hope a holiday in a place like this offers.

Oppiduin, Grootvlei Guest Farm

Vast relief

The silence out here is vast, the isolation immense, with the closest inhabitants from this traditional corbelled house 5km away, the nearest tar road 29. I was a little surprised at the extent to which the nothingness of the Great Karoo unhinged me. I am not known for my timidity. I tried to stay curious rather than turning in on myself, reminding myself that pretending can do great damage. 

I found soft, crispy cotton sheets, thick stone walls which hold the heat and big blue skies, with sunrises that move downwards through the landscape, not only upwards into the sky. 

Perhaps one day I will find words with which to describe this magical place. But for now I have only images with which to express this relief. 

Stuurmansfontein Corbelled House, Carnarvon

Stuurmansfontein Corbelled House

Creative new beginnings

Waenhuis Karoo Cottage

What is art really and who's to say? My creative trip blogging energy is only building up and I will not be offended if you unfollow me for a few days.

We are cultural heathens and our idea of high art is a starry night viewed through our roofless tent. But to impress our artsy friends we decide we really must go to Nieu Bethesda (even if only to avoid the chest-clutching gasp of "You've never been?!") You know who you little snobs are. But, since this is a trip of New Beginnings (and the coast has been hit by another cold front) we determine to travel the small 5 hour detour North. Sharon struggles to find New Bethesda on the GPS and her dyslexic companion is not much help.

I do some internet research on the famous Owl House. Now I know all good artists perseverate, but from the photos it looks (not unlike our car engine) like something went twang somewhere on a particularly bumpy patch. I shall stay open-minded.

I find out that there is a fine dining restaurant run by two Afrikaans boys, egte Karoo kos. Sharon perks up: "What do you think we'll have - boerewors foam? Melktert panacotta? Koeksister tuiles? Vetkoek profiteroles?" I sigh, knowing she's also only just getting started and did I mention it's a 5 hour detour North?

Once she ran out of creative descriptives, we listened to a talk about the gentle force of true nature pushing itself up from within, like a shoot from a seed pushing up through the earth, each one a unique enactment of authenticity.

The Owl House surprised us with this type of artistic expression, the imperative of it, the yearning to break free from a prison of circumstance.

Some of Helen Martins' female figures point with one finger to her other hand, seemingly saying "Look, it's right here in the palm of your hand. In this messy life of disappointed expectations." Other figures point to one another in solidarity, hope in despair. She used the ordinary objects of her life - a tin of Sunshine polish, broken, coloured glass and grey earth - to manifest her beauty.

What a courageous and unique woman and what a heritage she has left. It's a pity only history appreciates strong women.

We confess that it was a much more moving and inspiring visit than expected (why did you not insist earlier that we go!?)

The tiny town of Nieu Bethesda in general is a delight. The Afrikaans boys' restaurant, Die Waenhuis, was closed on a Sunday night, sigh, but we stayed at their karoo cottage, another artwork of unique and thoughtful design and decor. It is the perfect pairing for the Nieu Bethesda experience, full of authentic antiques, humour and creative flair. 

The kitchen is well equipped and the cottage is separated from the restaurant by a pretty courtyard surrounded by herbs and salads. 

It is a surprisingly stylish and plush place to stay, with white linen, soft beds, a luxurious bath and plentiful outdoor spaces from which to watch the world go by or rest in the green garden space. 

 

Hearing some of Jacque's story about their dream and struggle to create this space and express their vision matched well with this place of surprises, artistic imperative, making space for true nature to express itself and in doing so, allowing other more timid little souls to soar in awe.

Mountain movement

Some people are drawn to the stillness of mountains. I love the movement - the ever changing light, the way it creates texture in the thick grass, the energetic way the water moves here. Even as an adolescent, my soul came alive in these mountains. 

The Berg House and Cottages is one of my favourite places to witness this ever-changing light. Based in the Northern Drakensberg, near Royal Natal and Bergville, from this vantage point one looks down the length of almost the entire Drakensberg mountain range. One may simply sit on the stoep and watch the drama of light and cloud. The incredible rock formation pool is another favourite position from which to gaze upon the full range of beauty. 

The thatched cottages are both snug and stylish, with that all-import white linen, French country style decor, fireplaces and creative outdoor seating spaces. 

The best part of the stay is that they deliver the most delicious meals in a cute basket to your door, to be enjoyed with those uninterrupted views. 

The Berg House and Cottages 

Hawksmoor House, Stellenbosch

Extending time

 

This is my second stay at Hawksmoor House and I start to wonder how they organise such intensity of blue skies each time I visit. It is so blue it lifts the soul instantly. You would have to be a seriously miserable person to be unhappy here.

The artistically landscaped gardens offer many delights. Someone has considered the movement of light over the property and throughout the day there are back-lit gems of all colour and shape.

Within the historic homestead, artistic decor picks up on the rich blue skies, red vines, green-lit Oaks and purple lavender. Around every corner there is a surprise and one is drawn into fascinating spaces with each vibrant, sunlit wall and perfectly balanced piece of antique furniture. The choice of colour for each room becomes especially clear in the late afternoon when the slanting light reflected off the long koi pond creates a play of interconnecting hues.

No lazy, tourist-pleasing pseudo-African decorating here - this no faux wine estate or country fake new build. It is intensely local, a 300 year old Cape Dutch thatched grand house surrounded by rambling outbuildings. And being on a real working wine and fruit farm, you feel local and privileged to enter this space. 

I give a gasp as an enormous (and may I say very well endowed) bull walks right past my low window. I am relieved to see he is on the other side of a fence and we spend a good few minutes staring at one another in equal fascination. It seems he got as much of a fright seeing me as I him and despite his size and ferocious look, I gather he is a bit frightened of the wind and seeking company rather than trouble. I stop short of offering a cuddle.

One of the best value luxury stays South Africa has to offer, I recommend this place to everyone I can. It is perfectly placed to access the Cape Town International airport, the wine farms and restaurants of Paarl, Wellington, Stellenbosch, and even Franschhoek and Cape Town itself. If you can bear to leave that is - Hawksmoor specialises in deep, beautiful baths, quality white linen, antique furniture, dramatic decor and double French doors letting in a splay of golden light and leading onto characterful outdoor seating areas. Most surprisingly, all this comes without primp or petulance, with the hosts offering warm, genuinely friendly and helpful hospitality such that your stay here will simply never be long enough.

Accommodation experience

Indeed the days are too short here and I wish to apply for an official extension of time at the magical space that is Hawksmoor House. The weather puts on such a spectacular show that it takes me a while to settle. The sky turns even bluer now, almost purple in its insistence. Fortunately my camera battery dies and I am forced to spend a slow sunset simply sitting on my private balcony where this place does indeed perform its magic on me. I am able to extend my time here through a portal into presence, a different time dimension altogether. 

Here there are delicious moments which extend downwards, rather than horizontally, into infinite sensory experiences which stretch even to the future where I am able to access them as I write. The experience of the sun streaming into my room, the layering of a valley with trees and mist, the tinny call of a guinea fowl, a row of impossibly straight ducks flying slowly past my open doors, a hawk caught on an updraught, suspended in time like me. If I could stay in this state, here on this natural patch of earth, I am sure I could live forever.