Hlonipha – Respect
At Thula Thula we were wooed by the same gentleness that calmed the elephants, as described in Lawrence Anthony’s ‘The Elephant Whisperer’. Even the name Thula Thula refers to a quietening or calming, usually spoken or sung as a lullaby to quieten a baby. A deep respect is shown here for all things natural and these people are serious about conservation.
Elephant
and rhino are allowed to wander right into the lodge grounds, and it is
remarkable to witness them going about their feeding and interactions from the
deep baths overlooking the open bush. The accommodation is African style, with
French verve. Zebra stripes, thatch, cool screed floors and wafty white
mosquito nets let you know you are in the heart of Zululand, Africa.
The
lodge owner and the late Lawrence Anthony’s elegant wife Francine joins us at the bar
and it is a privilege to meet her and ask her about her life. She is passionate
about Africa, conservation and delicious food and the effects of her care are
everywhere. The lodge is famed for its gourmet meals and we enjoy a superb 4-course meal, once again a creative fushion of French and African inspiration.
Accommodation
Experience:
On
an afternoon safari game drive we spend a happy two hours driving around the
well protected game reserve. It is a thrill which is hard to explain to get
close to the very elephants described in the book and each one is named and has
an interesting story about its personality or past. They become four
dimensional beings as we hear more about their interesting quirks and history.
I have a sense that one can stay here for weeks and keep learning more about
each one and developing a relationship with them.
Our
guide is one of the best I have ever enjoyed being out with, and he is clearly
passionate about the conservation of this natural heritage, as well as offering
lively stories and fresh information. We stop for drinks at a watering hole and
appreciate the privilege of being out in the African bushveld. We move on, passing a ‘tall
horse’ (giraffe), silhouetted against the setting sun.
However it is on our way back that I have my heart-stopping moment. We round a corner
and come across the two local rhino of the reserve. We stop and discuss their
habits and history, and as we do so, one comes right up to the vehicle. He keeps
coming and stops, not 20cm from my door and it is all I can do to stop myself
from reaching out and touching his precious head. It is an experience I will
never forget, made more poignant by the plight of these endangered great
beasts. This pair of rhinos have their own private bodyguards, a 24 hour
security detail to ensure that they are not poached for their horns. We are
excited to hear that there is a newly opened Rhino Orphanage awaiting its first
two orphaned baby rhinos in the coming week. It is yet another significant
contribution to the conservation of this beautiful animal by the lovely people
of this priceless safari lodge and game reserve.
Beautifully written blog about a lovely, gentle place.
ReplyDeleteThis blog makes me yearn to get to Thula Thula fast!
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