Smalkloof Guest Farm, Volksrust

Golden Light

I am increasingly drawn to simplicity, and a farm stay brings a certain groundedness to a work travel trip which I really appreciate. Smalkloof Guest Farm, just outside Volksrust, is the perfect antidote to business stress. This is a place of golden hay bales, sheep and big skies. I drive up the long drive and stop to admire a large herd of sheep. It is dinner time and they come closer, stop, stare and then I can see one of the sheep saying to the others “Play it cool, guys, but I don’t think she’s the one who usually brings us our supper.” This is of course followed by collective panic as they all run bleating away as fast as there little legs can carry them. As I said, it’s good to be on a farm, where things are simple and real.

It seems that most of the rooms have entrances out to the beautiful farm, with plentiful outdoor seating areas. The room in which I choose to stay has its own verandah with table and chairs. Inside it is warm – with glowing orange art and cushions and an indoor fireplace. It is a cold night and I am pleased to settle in front of the fire. The en-suite bathroom is well equipped and I leave the bedroom door open to enjoy both bath and fire.

Accommodation Experience

Even the richest person on earth can’t do much better than warm, buttery toast and tea, appreciated outdoors with sunny skies and a view. I make a mindful cuppa and take it outside to the table under the big tree to enjoy. I am joined by all 5 the Jack Russel dogs, who share my enthusiasm for tea and the great outdoors.

I catch myself gulping big breaths of fresh air as my eye keeps being drawn to the open skies and golden fields with awe and gratitude.

Stoneybrook Farm, Kokstad, Eastern Cape

Flintstones go luxury

You will find no annoying leafblowers here – this is a real industrial working farm, not a faux country boutique. Set just outside Kokstad amongst green hills and lakes aplenty, you will experience a warm welcome and open heartedness at Stoneybrook Farm.

I drive past enormous earthmoving equipment and a traditional homestead, down to the Dam Cottage, a spacious 4 bedroom house sprawled out overlooking a lush dam where ducks move in formation with their ducklings through the reeds. One looks out through solid glass windows from almost every aspect of the house, down to the dam, Matatiele road and hills beyond. Natural stone walls add character to every room and bathroom, and the ochre stone has been creatively used to create circular shower enclosures and shelves. It’s like the Flintstones went luxury without losing their sense of who they are.

Every one of the four bedrooms has an en-suite bathroom, two with fabulous baths overlooking the dam. The rustic feel has been well balanced with modern, light curtains and linen. African-inspired décor matches well with the chunky all wooden furniture and natural screed floor. A full kitchen and 12-seater dining table opens onto a bright scarlet set of antique velvet couches which face onto the fireplace and wide verandah.

Accommodation Experience:

There is nothing cold or unwelcoming about a lakeside stone cottage set on a working farm and I need this earthy warmth tonight. I have just left an unwell partner and ageing ill dog for a week’s work in the Eastern Cape. I break my journey in Kokstad, feeling homesick and a circling despair about the week’s work ahead in rural Eastern Cape and busy Mthatha. I am very glad to have chosen a farm stay and as I enter this homely place my spirits lift instantly. I explore every room, silently “oohing” and “aahing” at each surprising discovery. I choose the best bathroom for the later evening’s entertainment and take my sorry little takeaways out onto the verandah to enjoy with the setting sun. The “it is what it is” acceptance turns into a grateful appreciation of this place and my life, thanks to the warmth and groundedness of this lovely characterful stay.

Grand Dedale, Wellington

Lazy Contentment

It doesn’t get better than this – silver service in a grand Cape Dutch Manor House on a wine estate at the base of a mountain near Wellington in the Western Cape. Beautifully restored, or should I say transformed, Grand Dedale has glossy porcelain tiles, chandelier, and elegant upholstered chairs.

When I arrive there is a fashion shoot in progress, and I am half intimidated by their glamour, and half smug that I get to spend the night in such luxury. It is a photographer’s paradise, with auburn autumn leaves, mountains, gabled and thatched rooftops, wide verandahs, vast and well-lit rooms and a particularly obliging lazy and contented ginger cat.

The hallways are grander than I imagined, resplendent with chandelier and oversized mirrors. A creamy lounge has a fireplace and quadruple glass doors leading out to the garden.

Personalised service leaves one feeling thoroughly spoilt and pampered, with high tea, complimentary sherry and a gourmet four-course dinner.

I stay in the spacious Limietburg suite, a long attic-style thatched room upstairs in the main lodge. The suite is bright and fresh, and I decide we shall have a long and happy relationship. At the far end of the suite there is a freestanding ball and claw bath set up against a window, with sky and oak tree views. Underfloor heating warms the smooth tiled floors. There is a separate dressing room with armchair and dressing table. A mirrored wall creates a clever visual effect of continuity. Beyond this there is a King-size bed with views out through a skylight. Finally the suite ends in a lounge area with two wide armchairs and a double cottage pane door, also mirrored for privacy and light.

Accommodation Experience:

A cold front arrives the same time that I do. The mists roll down over the mountain and look mysterious from the cosy and bright attic suite. A wave of contentment washes over me and I am unusually happy to sit in my comfy lounge and while away the afternoon listening to music. I wonder to myself why it is when I stay in a place of such beauty and care that I feel the best version of myself – connected, peaceful, inspired and mindful. I guess a stay in characterful accommodation is a wonderful opportunity to take a pause out of everyday life - to reconnect with one's senses, detach from negative thoughts, process one's feelings and appreciate the simple pleasures of life. 

And so as I lay my head back in the armchair I smile, let my senses float on the beautiful music out through the skylight and into the night sky.