Angala Boutique Hotel, Franschhoek

Portal of gratitude

Imagine this – five star luxury in a natural setting, with a spiritual focus to their beautiful accommodation. I feel I have fallen through a portal of gratitude into a parallel world. The meaning behind the name Angala includes the creation of the earth by the divine, an ongoing process of regenerating limitless potential (see www.angala.co.za). One enters into this spirit the moment one drives through the wine estate and walks past the large wooden sculptured heart and thick lavender into the open plan lounge and elegant dining area of the lodge.

Angala looks out to mountains for 360 degrees of its view. It is the perfect central location between Franschhoek, Stellenbosch and Paarl, from which to explore the surrounding wine estates, restaurants and countryside – if you ever manage to leave that is. I overhear a couple asking if they may extend their stay at Angala and I similarly long to make this my loveliest of homes for as long as possible. The peace and stillness simply captivate one and a quiet bond soon develops amongst the likeminded, nature-loving guests and warm, calm staff.

The light-filled rooms overlook the lake or gardens which are rich with diverse birdlife. Each room has a lounge area opening with double glass doors onto a private verandah with seating area. Back inside there is a round dining table with chairs, a most beautiful bespoke kitchenette wardrobe with cutlery and crockery, a Nespresso coffee maker, microwave, chopping board and sink. Every luxury has been thought of, and there are beautiful cotton gowns and slippers, heated towel rails, underfloor heating, air-conditioning and a ceiling fan. In the sophisticated bedroom area there is subtle downlighting and pretty bedside lamps to highlight the silky white linen and upholstered headboard.

But it's the bathrooms that win my decor heart - tiled in marble, fitted in minimalist white and with one side a full height set of glass sliding doors with views onto private gardens and the lake beyond. A deep freestanding bath faces the lovely view past double indoor showers and an outdoor shower on the deck. A portion of the deck wall rolls away to open the sense of space and continuity even further.

This is cutting-edge South African accommodation - the perfect blend of sensory, spiritual, environmental, natural, modern and aesthetic. The gardens are lush and decorated with soulful wooden sculptures. The open area in front of the main lodge is graced with an exquisite eco-pool, surrounded by Arum Lilies, Daffodils and reeds. 

I love it when an historic building is brought gently into the 21^st Century with aesthetic care and the main lodge is both modern and traditional, and very South African. It has a wide verandah on two sides, one side overlooking the valley, and the other side facing the eco pool. There is an outdoor and indoor fireplace with wooden and grey upholstered eco-style furniture. The food, which is served outdoors when the weather is good, is delicious and I feel a surge of pride in what South African accommodation like this offers its delighted guests.

Accommodation Experience:

Ascetic spirituality has us conditioned to divide the beautiful and pampering from the spiritual. This stems, perhaps, from Descarte’s mind-body dualism and the disillusionment with the wealth and corruption seen in the church, coinciding with the birth of the paradoxically titled “enlightenment” and modernism. The shift meant giving perhaps too much power to the scientific and intellectual, with the loss of the soulful and natural. Rediscovery of ancient spiritual practices like Mindfulness are now encouraging us to spend less time trapped in our thoughts and to bridge the mind-body divide by integrating the spiritual with the sensory and living fully in the present moment. Still, the idea of simply being present to nature and our senses scares us.

I decide to take up the challenge, and instead of dashing about taking too many photographs, as I would usually do, I decide to make the most of my heavenly bathroom at Angala.

If you have never had the privilege of an outdoor shower under open African skies, this should be on your list. And Angala has one of the best outdoor showers I have ever experienced – overlooking the mountains and gardens from a raised wooden platform with wooden sides for complete privacy. A cool breeze comes off the lake and brings the scent of orange blossom in from the garden.

As usual, despite all the luxury and finesse, it is nature that steals the show. From my shower I see a bright yellow and black bishop flit past and an emerald sunbird comes to visit. A distant mountain, the Paarl perhaps, is suddenly lit up in a spectacular display of light breaking through the clouds. I don’t even rush for my camera, just smile and gaze in silent awe and gratitude.

Highveld Splendour Boutique Hotel, Ermelo

Cleansing Beauty

I had a hankering to immerse myself in beauty, in a clean and calm space. I could not have made a better choice with a stay at Highveld Splendour. Vast rooms, cool, tiled floors, wide glass doors and high ceilings instantly dispel any mental or emotional clutter. Open plan bathrooms have spacious all-glass showers, minimalist basin bowls and deep, modern baths. Fluffy, soft, grey bathrobes provide a comforting foil against the cool white. It’s like someone found my wish-list and made it come true.

Every possible luxury has been thought of – thick, white towels, temperature controlled rooms, silky white linen with smooth, King-size pillows on the extra length King bed. Walnut wood furniture and fittings ground the look, along with the thatched roof and exposed wooden beams. I especially love the thick, hung wood panels with soft down-lighting and recessed wiring. A glamorous wallpapered wall, patterned right up to the apex of the open ceiling completes the balance of light and luxe.

Accommodation experience:

I have only one night at this beautiful haven, and not content with the few waking hours I have at Highveld Spendour, I don’t want to waste time on sleep. I sleep late and wake early, sitting in bed and enjoying the calm space. With the thatched roof, birds singing and my view onto a Yellowwood tree, it feels like one is far out in the country. There is perfect harmony between the natural materials, contrasted with the sheer glass and minimalist white.

I had been drawn to the clean look of this place, but find myself equally appreciating the warm grey wood in the suite, the beautiful grounds of the estate and the friendly staff. Sometimes a clean sweep can be tempered with gentle warmth and the results are more restorative.

It still surprises me when I not only get what I want, but find unexpected pleasure in what I really need. 

The White House, Mthatha

It’s all about balance

A lovely definition for the verb of balance is “to offset the value of one thing with another”. Things brings about a state of equilibrium, or more simply put, “to enable someone or something to remain upright and steady” (Google web).

This is what I find at The White House in Mthatha. I was involved in visits to community projects in the extreme heat, dust and busyness of the urban streets and surrounding townships of Mthatha. I thoroughly enjoyed the intensity and vibrance of the work, but needed to counter-foil this experience with calm, clean, minimalist repose. The serene interiors really are all white, with white walls, white windows and doors, white furniture and crisp white linen. After washing the dust off in a spacious, modern shower, I found balance by collapsing into this little haven at the end of each day.

There are rooms squeezed into every corner of this property, but once inside, they create a cell of calm contentment. Rooms are air-conditioned, with glass doors, lined curtains, desks, plentiful pretty lamps, complimentary tea and coffee.

The public spaces are elegantly decorated with landscape and Nguni scenes, together with country clocks and blue and white checked table cloths. An outdoor pool and conservatory-style dining area is a gathering point for guests in the evening. Staff are helpful and always on hand, and there is a restaurant at the lodge such that you needn’t leave your little oasis except to head out again into the texture and life of the city and beyond onto the beauty of the Eastern Cape wild coast.

Stoneybrook Farm, Kokstad, Eastern Cape

Flintstones go luxury

You will find no annoying leafblowers here – this is a real industrial working farm, not a faux country boutique. Set just outside Kokstad amongst green hills and lakes aplenty, you will experience a warm welcome and open heartedness at Stoneybrook Farm.

I drive past enormous earthmoving equipment and a traditional homestead, down to the Dam Cottage, a spacious 4 bedroom house sprawled out overlooking a lush dam where ducks move in formation with their ducklings through the reeds. One looks out through solid glass windows from almost every aspect of the house, down to the dam, Matatiele road and hills beyond. Natural stone walls add character to every room and bathroom, and the ochre stone has been creatively used to create circular shower enclosures and shelves. It’s like the Flintstones went luxury without losing their sense of who they are.

Every one of the four bedrooms has an en-suite bathroom, two with fabulous baths overlooking the dam. The rustic feel has been well balanced with modern, light curtains and linen. African-inspired décor matches well with the chunky all wooden furniture and natural screed floor. A full kitchen and 12-seater dining table opens onto a bright scarlet set of antique velvet couches which face onto the fireplace and wide verandah.

Accommodation Experience:

There is nothing cold or unwelcoming about a lakeside stone cottage set on a working farm and I need this earthy warmth tonight. I have just left an unwell partner and ageing ill dog for a week’s work in the Eastern Cape. I break my journey in Kokstad, feeling homesick and a circling despair about the week’s work ahead in rural Eastern Cape and busy Mthatha. I am very glad to have chosen a farm stay and as I enter this homely place my spirits lift instantly. I explore every room, silently “oohing” and “aahing” at each surprising discovery. I choose the best bathroom for the later evening’s entertainment and take my sorry little takeaways out onto the verandah to enjoy with the setting sun. The “it is what it is” acceptance turns into a grateful appreciation of this place and my life, thanks to the warmth and groundedness of this lovely characterful stay.

Leeuwenhof Country Hotel and Spa, Modimolle

Glamping Romance

A stay in a Riverside Luxury Tent at Leeuwenhof Country Hotel and Spa (www.portfoliocollection.co.za) is like sleeping in your very own beautifully appointed wedding tent. Country romance is the theme of this elegant stay, and the spacious tent has soft fabric ceilings, cream furniture and curtains, blue-grey and cream striped bedding with white linen.

The tent has a wooden floor with lounge, bedroom area and full bathroom, cleverly separated by two high wardrobes. Outside there is a private deck with outdoor shower and your very own Jacuzzi spa bath overlooking the riverine bushveld. Set well away from the main hotel, overlooking natural hillside, the feeling is of being elite guests in a private nature reserve.

Luxe glamping at its best, there is air-conditioning, heating, electric blankets and the choice of surrounding window blinds open to the cool breeze and sounds of nature.

Decadent pillow treats, a candle-lit foam bath and a caring turn-down service are the final romantic touches leading to sighs of happiness at the end of the day.

Accommodation Experience

This is such a romantic suite and of course I am here alone on a work trip. I have an intense bout of loneliness and self-pity. I wallow in my misery for a while, then tell myself to buck up and make the most of this amazing opportunity. I head out to the Jacuzzi and am instantly cheered up by the experience of lying in bubbles with a pretty view of the sun setting over the river and hillside. The mindful relaxation soon takes me through a portal into a deeper space where there is no loneliness or despair, only a feeling of connectedness and wellbeing. A character stay like this, which pampers and nurtures, as well as drawing one out into nature, is a beautiful space for a romance with life in all its aching loveliness.

Kurisa Moya Forest Lodge Cabins, Magoebaskloof

Where Ents Moot

Picture this view X 360 degrees and you will have some idea of life amongst the trees at Kurisa Moya Forest Lodge Cabins. This is an ancient forest where Ents Moot. At night, if you listen very well, you will hear them move about and speak in their whispery way – though not during the day when they stand tall and dignified.

In a not-so-rustic treehouse raised on stilts, within 422 hectares of indigenous forest, Kurisa Moya is a birders' paradise. Accredited Birdlife SA guide David Letsoalo will reveal the many wonders of this pristine location to you, including a Bat Hawk nesting site. Set between Tzaneen and Polokwane in the spectacular Magoebaskloof in Limpopo, there is plenty to do other than birding, such as hiking, elephant-back safaris, swimming in dams and waterfalls.

At night you can return to your private treehouse, with a fireplace, deck with Weber braai, and kitchen with a gas stove. Double glass doors and surround-windows allow one to feel connected to the forest at all times. The treehouse has a double bed, ensuite bathroom with shower, and mezzanine with twin beds under a glass apex. Everything is wooden, even the cutlery rack, made from a branch with helpful hooks. There is no electricity and the respect for the natural environment is clear in every aspect of the lodge.

Accommodation Experience

I go out at dusk to fetch something from the car. Suddenly the forest feels very much alive – there is movement in the trees and under the bushes right next to my feet. I have a sense that the forest has been waiting for humans to retreat and that my presence is revealing a different life at night. I have to stop myself from running across the little bridge across the stream back to the safety of my treehouse.

I am happy my house is on stilts and I light a fire to create a warm glow. As soon as I am settled in at the fire in the safety of this cosy space I am able to reflect quite happily on the privilege of being in such a pristine world. I feel alive and very much connected to the ancient forest and all the creatures who call this beautiful patch of the earth home.

Waterbessiebos Cottage, Tzaneen

Following the light through the trees

I could happily spend a week in this treehouse style cottage, doing little other than watching the light move through the trees. This is a surprisingly comfortable spot from which to do so, with a spacious open-plan structure and unique architecture. The house on stilts is made up of interesting shapes, with a bow-like deck jutting out into the forest garden. Sitting at the pretty round table and chairs on the deck one may enjoy warm tea and buttery toast as you sink into a simpler way of being.

Inside Waterbessiebos Cottage, there is no treehouse grunge here – the fittings are modern, with a well designed kitchen. Zig-zag cupboard handles in brushed silver contrast with the rich grain of the wood. The floors have a laminate wood finish and the walls all end in glass skylights. An artistic eye has combined grey and red in the corner lounge which makes the most of the forest views with full height windows.

In the en-suite bathroom there is a wide, deep stone bath, with matching basin and tiles. A pair of luscious, thick, soft grey gowns hang behind the door.

Accommodation Experience

It is night and an owl hoots softly outside. It is hard not to feel blessed when and owl chooses your home for the evening, and it is especially hard not to feel blessed when you are retreating in such a calm and beautiful space as this. After the busy excitement and travel of the past few days, this place is like a coming home to myself in silence and solitude. 

There is a satisfying circularity to the idea of leaving home to come home to oneself, and this is the mystery offered by a particularly characterful stay like this treehouse.

I feel a gentle unwinding and I look forward to a long night’s sleep in the soft bed as much as I look forward to watching the morning light move through the trees.