Naries Namaqua Mountain Retreat, Springbok, Namaqualand, Northern Cape

Stillness in the Desert

Throughout my stay at Naries Namaqua Mountain Retreat I had to remind myself to appreciate this present experience, rather than constantly planning a longer return stay.

The Naries characterful round thatched huts are nestled into similar shaped boulders of the Namaqualand desert. The cool interior surrounds one with thatched comfort which is complemented by the smooth polished floors, while the clean white linen of the King sized bed contrasts well with the thatched texture of the suite, creating an inviting pool of silky softness. My dark grey stone bath was decorated with pretty flowers, linking the interior to the views of the surrounding desert landscape.

Things I love about Naries Namaqualand Mountain Retreat:

• Being removed from one’s normal busy life, immersed in the remote, quiet desert landscape
• The unique architecture of the fully rounded thatched mountain suites, camouflaged into the landscape by mimicking the shape of the natural boulders in the area
• The contrast of thatch walls with cool polished floors and fresh white linen
• The windows creating framed views of the desert beyond the comfort of the interior
• The large stone bath and well designed bathroom
• The creative and delicious food served at the Naries Manor House

Accommodation Experience:

Despite the luxury of the interior and the fascinating style of the architecture, it is the vastness of the desert that silently calls to one from Namaqualand. I found myself sitting for hours outside on the deck of my suite, watching and waiting in silence as the desert stillness drew me in. As I sat motionless, watching the colour of the rock change from grey to pink to orange, I began to notice small movements in the surrounding sands. There was a quick scurry of a lizard and the flit of a butterfly. Although my first visit was not in the spectacular flower season of Namaqualand, my eyes gradually attuned to delicate blossoms coming out of the coarse gravel. In the distance I saw a herd of Springbok and Eland crossing the desert plains in search of their evening drink. A jackal called from the far horizon.

I felt vulnerable, thin skinned and awake, yet secure, stripped of any false self by the empty honesty of the landscape. No matter how busy or stressed one is on arrival, the desert will do its gentle work on one’s soul, calling one back to the essence of oneself and one’s integral connection with the ancient landscape.

Welgelegen Manor, Balfour, Mpumalanga

An invitation to old world splendour

Driving out of Gauteng, it surprises me how quickly enters a different era – a world of sunflower fields and cosmos, of dusty roads, traditional houses and small villages with classical shop-front signage. One of the prestigious Portfolio Collection establishments (see www.portfoliocollection.com), Welgelegen Manor is situated near Balfour in Mpumalanga, but close to the Gauteng border. I arrive in the late afternoon when the sun is low enough to light up individual strands of grass, their heads full of seeds and purple colour. And driving through old avenues of trees, one’s senses heighten at the privilege of entering a different time in history.

The sensitively restored Herbert Baker manor house is both imposing and welcoming, and the friendly host wins many bonus points by allowing me ample time to view every room in Welgelegen Manor. Of quintessential Herbert Baker design, the manor house has many different wings maximising the views in different directions. Baker’s high ceilings with large sash windows and beautiful double doors invite plenty of light, while dark wood panelling surrounding impressive fireplaces balance the light with grandeur.

I am shown to my chosen room, situated at the far corner of a herb-filled courtyard. The outside wall is lined with lavender and rose bushes and the room has four wide stable doors facing different directions. I had been nervous that such an old building would be stuffy and smell musty and dusty. But there is no Miss Haversham feel here. The room is elegantly decorated in pale blue-grey, using matching plush fabric for the chairs, headboard and blinds. Even the oak furniture, while traditional, is not heavy and stolid, but clean-lined, light and stylish. A vase of freshly cut roses stands on the dressing table in the bedroom. Home-baked cookies warm the graceful lounge area of my suite and I sink into the comfortable chaise lounge with a fresh cup of tea.

Accommodation Experience:

I am surprised to find that my favourite time in the room is dusk. This has to do with the many soft lights in the suite. The two pretty chandeliers complement the four stylish side-board lamps on either end of the expansive suite, while the bedside lamps cast a gentle glow onto the crisp white linen.

As I move through to the bathroom, I notice the moon rising in the bathroom window and I run a luxurious moonlit bubble bath in the large ball and claw Victorian bath.

From my bath I notice that there are no curt signs asking one to not do this and that, and one has a sense of being welcomed into a time of comfort and care that was reserved for a privileged few. To this one naturally responds with an appreciation for how far we have come since these days, and a sense of guilty gratitude for being able to briefly experience a particular way of life. I am left with an awareness of my own current day privilege of having this taste of the past and of being invited to participate in the artful preservation of little corner of the country which still reveals a bygone era.

What I loved about Welgelegen Manor:

• The vast grounds with big skies, old trees and interesting relics of the past
• It’s a Herbert Baker designed original manor house!
• Being given time to explore the whole of the manor house at one’s leisure
• That each spacious suite is splendid and has its own unique features, such that there is no sense of unfairness or disappointment in whichever suite you choose
• Elegantly restored suites with beautiful furniture, upholstery and lighting
• Modern thoughtful conveniences like plenty of accessible plug points with multiple adaptors
• Deep baths in huge bathrooms and plentiful large fluffy white towels
• The cinema room with elegant chaise lounges contrasting the modern technology

Hartford House, KwaZulu-Natal Midlands

Midlands Country Style

Hartford House

Mooi River, KwaZulu-Natal Midlands

I am determined to eventually stay in every suite at one of my favourite KwaZulu-Natal Midlands haunts, Hartford House, a member of the Portfolio Collection (see www.portfoliocollection.com). Each time I return I find a new gem at this lush country escape. My most recent stay was at one of the lakeside suites, aptly names Siyabonga (which translates to gratitude or “thank you” in isiZulu).

The lakeside-ness of the lakesuide suites cannot be exaggerated. They really are at the water’s edge and feel part of the natural setting. The expanse of glass windows and doors are high definition screens providing endless amusement from the birdlife, movement on the water and changing light of the surrounding grasslands.

Jackie Cameron’s meals are the award-winning event of the evening. With the lightest of touches, she awakened my pallet with an almost levitating ginger-marinated salmon salad. This was artfully followed by an intense mushroom soup, and a grand rich horseradish beef fillet, balanced by a clever “foraging” tiramisu and finally a local cheeseboard. The meal was a celebration of all that is local and fresh and seemed an apt expression of the passion with which the chef and owners of Hartford engage and belong in their environment.  

What I love about Hartford House:

• The setting of the suites, each in a unique natural surrounding
• The understated luxury which comes without pretentions or ostentation
• That you feel you would be at home here in your latest Jimmy Choo heels or your favourite comfortable old walking shoes
• The characterful decor which pushes the boundaries of the balance between exotic and local
• The oversized baths with views of the gardens or lake
• The amazing food which celebrates local products and leaves one feeling creatively satisfied without feeling too heavy or rich

Accommodation Experience

From my large round natural stone bath, I have a surprising view through the bedroom, right down to the dam and even the hills beyond. Now that I am done with my excited rushing about the room and grounds taking photographs, I find myself slowing and noticing the subtler aspects of my surroundings – the way the light is creating texture in a grassy field beyond the lake, the crows descending onto the pink-red soil of a ploughed field, and the way the Red Bishops bend and bow with the movements of the reeds at the water’s edge.

It is dusk and the ducks are coming in clumsily to land at the lake and the reed birds are finding their places to roost. A great settling is happening all around and even within me – a coming home to myself, which comes with a swell of gratitude for the privilege of being once again in a place of great natural beauty and ease. 

The Gorge Private Game Lodge and Spa

Plush nature hide

The Gorge Private Game Lodge and Spa

Oribi Gorge, KwaZulu-Natal South Coast

I had expected the views at The Gorge Game Lodge and Spa to be pretty, but they were spectacular. When I walked into the suite, with its full height and 180 degree windows, the view took my breath away. Situated on the edge of a dramatic corner of the Oribi Gorge, the views span a broad stretch of the gorge and silvery river below.

The architecture of the suites makes the most of the unique location and vast views, with individual curved free-standing units perched on the edge of a drop into the gorge. The use of natural stone walls, taupe neutrals, clean white linen and a hint of stylish African decor enhances the feeling of belonging in the natural setting. The clever design means that one can relax in the huge bath and outdoor shower with amazing views and complete privacy. The gorge views provide endless entertainment in the form of changing skies and birds of prey flying right past the expansive windows and balcony so that it feels like you are in a plush nature hide.

The Gorge personnel were enthusiastic to meet every wish, including being pleased to serve meals on the balcony of the suite to create one's own private, candle-lit restaurant. The food was delicious and beautifully presented. While being attentive, the staff also respected one's personal space.

As a private retreat in luxury and natural beauty I highly recommend The Gorge. The Gorge Private Game Lodge and Spa is a member of the Portfolio Collection, and for more details visit www.portfoliocollection.com.

Things I loved about The Gorge Game Lodge and Spa:

• The dramatic views of the Oribi Gorge
• The clever architecture which maximises these views to create a feeling of being in a private, luxurious nature hide
• Spectacular bathroom views with enormous bath and both an outdoor and indoor shower
• Stylish decor which integrates luxury with the natural feel of the setting
• Private candle-lit dinners on the balcony of one’s own suite
• Enthusiastic and respectful staff

Accommodation Experience:

I loved the long bubble baths by starlight, enjoying moonlit views of the gorge below. 

My other favourite spot was my private balcony and I was thrilled to have dinner served here at my suite. Watching the late sunset, while having a delicious meal, was a highlight, especially when a pair of Rainbirds flew past one evening. Usually fairly shy, it was a privilege to watch them float down together in synchronised flight right past the balcony, unaware of my presence. I felt very awake, alive, calm and quietly grateful.