Play of light

We drove all the way across the country, heading straight for fish 'n chips at Lambert's Bay. And found the perfect West Coast accommodation accompaniment at Oppiduin, Grootvlei. 

This shabby chic beach house is as on-the-beach as it gets, with dramatic curved architecture making the most of the vast views onto ocean and surrounding nature. Expansive glass windows follow the curves of every room. Local materials such as shells, driftwood and beach sand have been used, creating interest and a play of light which mirrors the natural world outside beautifully. I do love a creative space which celebrates its context, for me the essence of travel, which takes one outside one's routine and familiarity. 

Our suite is as spacious as that view, with a fireplace in the open plan lounge and bedroom. Outside the wind is howling, but from our protected position we are almost unaware, except for the sound of it singing in the roof above the shower. It almost sounds spiritual. 

Still, I can't stop dashing outside throughout the long sunset to take photos as the golden rays light up new facets of the decor and architecture. I return from each outing windswept and glowing. 

What a privilege to witness so many slow sunsets and dawns in so many beautiful spaces - that was the mission of this trip after all. I hope it brings new appreciation to my life at home, not simply the struggle to sleep and wake and work. A healthier rhythm must be possible, or at least this is the hope a holiday in a place like this offers.

Oppiduin, Grootvlei Guest Farm

White Elephant Safari Lodge, Jozini

Life seems real

“It is essential to experience all the times and moods of this place.”

                                                                     Thomas Merton

Every moment at White Elephant Safari Lodge is an experience of the African bushveld of Northern KwaZulu-Natal.  From the sounds of the singing veld, to the views of the setting sun, to Bushbuck, warthog and giraffe wandering around the lodge, one feels immersed in this location and greatly privileged to be so closely connected to the land. The warm welcome by lodge hosts make one soon become an integrated local, learning the names and daily rhythms of the elephants and other family members. It is even possible to request an outing with an elephant behaviour researcher connected to the lodge and stationed at the Pongola Game Reserve.

The accommodation in authentic canvas safari tents further connects one to the African surrounds, though glamping this is for sure. The white linen is offset by rich oranges and red, softened again by a misty mosquito net. A glorious freestanding Victorian bath is set up against the back of the tent such that you may lift the sides to feel as if you are outdoors. If this is still not enough contact with African blue skies, an outdoor shower under a kindly Acacia tree will complete your fantasy.

Accommodation Experience

Having been to many game reserves and luxury lodges in Africa, I somehow still find myself captivated by this one. Perhaps it is the openness of this lodge which allows a free flow of animals, and that one is intimately connected to this environment by being in a tent. Or it may be the unique feature of this lodge that it overlooks the vast Jozini Dam and this combination of African bushveld next to a vast water source is an unusual and luxurious one. This allows one to choose between game drives, an outing with the elephant research station staff, water activities on the dam, or simply lazing in the lodge swimming pool while the animals move gently around you, all of which is perfect for this hot and sunny part of the world.

Gin and tonic in hand, I sigh with happiness as I sit on my deck appreciating the sun setting, creating pink light over the Jozini Dam. It is a hot day, the whole country being gripped in a heat wave. Nonetheless my hair is still damp from having just showered outdoors and I feel cooled simply being close to water. One quickly becomes integrated into the rhythms of this place, which mirror the movement of the fauna and flora of this environment. Above all, here there is a sense of great belonging, a oneness with the land and locals. I am reminded of the words of Thomas Merton in his journal, written in a very different climate and time, yet reaching into this time and this sense of integration with a natural place and its natural daily rhythms:

“How full the days are, full of quiet, ordered, occupied (sawing wood, sweeping, reading, taking notes, meditating, praying, tending to the fire, or just looking at the valley). Only here do I feel fully human. And only what is authentically human is fit to be offered to God ... Life seems real.”                                                                                                                       Thomas Merton

Papkuilsfontein, Nieuwoudtville

 

Gently Lit

I sit at a small, square, wooden dining table, writing these words in an old journal. My source of light is gentle, even though it comes from 3 sources – a candle, a paraffin lamp and the wood-burning fire. I am at Papkuilsfontein, Rondekraal stone and thatched cottage. There is no electricity, though by day the cottage is amply lit by 3 doors, 2 windows and glass panels at the front end of the cottage. At night the natural flames create a warm glow. 

The Rondenkraal cottage is set within an old, stone-walled horse kraal, in a field of yellow grass or flowers, in the middle of nowhere, on the aptly-named Moedverloorpad (“losing will road”).

There are several thoughtful seating areas facing different directions, to make the most of the rising and setting sun and deep shade. A photographer’s paradise, there is texture and colour everywhere – thatch, stone walls, windmills, fynbos, rolling hills and big skies with cotton clouds. Thanks to the stone kraal wall and vast open fields, the privacy of the cottage impresses me. Usually rather a prude, I am so alone here that even I walk freely between bathroom and bedroom with the windows and doors wide open.

The cottage has a classical long-barn shape which is typical of this area. What gives it a modern twist is the glass wall at the top end of the cottage. Inside there is a pleasing aesthetic, with thick stone walls and recessed windows, old wooden furniture and an open-plan layout. At the top end of the cottage, the inviting lounge has rich red wingback rocking chairs facing the fireplace. In the middle of the cottage, the kitchen is well-equipped with a full sized fridge, gas stove and oven, and a stove-top espresso pot. A friendly dining table divides the living area from the sleeping area. The bedroom is pretty - a double bed with a white mosquito net, white linen and a soft tartan blanket. Finally, there is a bathroom at the other end of the cottage, with a deep ball-and-claw bath, as well as an outdoor shower.

Accommodation Experience:

I light every one of the paraffin lamps, as well as making a fire – it is the main entertainment here at night. I am tired from the long trip - in a good way. Sunburnt, physically sore from too much exploration of the wonderful surrounds, I am left feeling a bit old and weathered. There is a safe vulnerability that this Namaqua landscape brings. Strange contradictions unhinge me – the dry vastness contrasted with the myriad of pretty flowers; the lack of keys in the doors and the sense of complete safety; the organic, rustic nature of this cottage along with the containing, thick stone walls; the simple but ample equipment to meet every need without the back-lit technology and excess which keep us distanced from ourselves.

It is a choice whether to engage this gentle undressing of all pretences and distractions. There is plenty to do in the area if one needs diversions. But I sense that my only task tonight is to sit here alone and give in to this experience of vulnerable openness and see to which new destination it takes me.

The Old Forge, Wilderness

Naturally restored

What a delight it was to discover the Old Forge, Wilderness. A stylish little cottage on a farm near Wilderness in the Western Cape, the Forge is everything lovely about a restored old outbuilding. The original building has been expertly restored to celebrate its beautiful stonework, while being extended to offer every modern convenience without detracting from its character. In keeping with the natural forest and grassland setting, the architecture is open and earthy, linking the exterior with the interior with a spacious deck style open plan lounge and kitchen area. The bathroom is also open, with privacy and views. Well-made, clear awnings provide protection against the elements.

The bedroom is in the original forge and the textured walls give a sense of cosiness and safety. The polished floors, fresh white linen, wooden furniture and elegant decor bring the look together with finesse. The host’s caring approach to nature, beautiful things, simplicity, comfort and hospitality is felt in every aspect of the delightful space.

Things I love about The Old Forge:

• Sensitive restoration of the original stone building
• Clever design which manages to feel both cosy and connected with the outdoors
• The extensive use of natural wood to complement the original stonework of the forge
• The way the natural materials are complemented with clean white cotton linen and thoughtful decor
• The friendly host who genuinely cares about creating a welcoming space while respecting one’s privacy
• The setting of the cottage on a farm in an area of outstanding natural beauty

Accommodation Experience

I was privileged to stay at the Old Forge while doing some debriefing and training work with a non-profit organisation in George for a week. At the end of each work day, the drive out of George to the Wilderness area was spectacular, and reminded me of expensive Riviera coastlines in Europe. I realised again how world-class our coastline and natural areas are in South Africa. Reaching Oakhurst Farm, I drove through a long avenue of tall Blue Gum trees, which created the perfect transitional space from my emotionally and cognitively demanding work, to a place of rest, comfort and beauty in nature. Spending time in the open lounge, watching the sun set across the adjacent field, was gently restorative, and sinking into the soft bed at night was deeply restful. The natural, grounding, inexpensive, yet nurturing stay enhanced my work experience and passed on to me a calm energy with which I was able to engage joyfully with the people of the region and gratefully receiving wisdom from their experiences and reflections.

Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park

Glamping at its best

Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park, Elgin, Western Cape

My parents, the most rugged of safari campers, recently asked me why I do not share their love of the Tent in the Great Outdoors. I replied that while I love being in nature, I do not enjoy grovelling in the dirt, dealing with leaking tents, trekking to the bathroom at night in the freezing cold and sharing grotty public bathrooms with critters of various shapes and forms. By contrast, Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park in Elgin is everything I love about being in nature in style. This is true glamping at its best.

My luxury trailer, rather sardonically called “Life Before Colour”, is as dinky as it is artful. The theme is of a bygone era reminiscent of black and white colour movies, and everything is beautifully decorated in black and white patterns, down to the wallpaper in the loo cubicle. Clever and fun decorating combined with thoughtful conveniences make the trailer a fabulous design success. The trailer is completely self contained, with a spacious double bed, a full sized Victorian bath, basin, wardrobe, separated toilet, kitchenette and lounge area. Outside there is a deck with far-reaching views of the Elgin valley.

Accommodation Experience:

I felt like a child exploring my interesting trailer, opening and closing all that moved. It took me a while to believe that everything really works – from the pop-up awnings at the windows, to the kettle, to the characterful little Smeg fridge, to the bath, to the flushing toilet.

After a fairytale bath, when I finally snuggled into my bed late that night, everything felt cosy and warm. I looked up and saw that the curved walls in the bedroom area were painted in silvery gold which shimmered in the light. I took a last look down the full length of the trailer, and sighed with pleasure at the perfect balance of luxury and fun achieved in this most characterful of stays.

What I love about Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park:

• The sense of humour which permeates the place, from the name “Old Mac Daddy” to the individually decorated trailers with interesting names and unique themes
• The surprising luxury of the trailers, where there is a feeling that no effort has been spared in the pursuit of comfort and creativity
• The quirky decor, in which every detail is true to the theme of each trailer
• The self-contained nature of the trailers, where each has its own bed, bathroom, kitchenette and lounge
• The setting and views of the Elgin valley
• The modern eco-design of the communal dining area