Papkuilsfontein, Nieuwoudtville

 

Gently Lit

I sit at a small, square, wooden dining table, writing these words in an old journal. My source of light is gentle, even though it comes from 3 sources – a candle, a paraffin lamp and the wood-burning fire. I am at Papkuilsfontein, Rondekraal stone and thatched cottage. There is no electricity, though by day the cottage is amply lit by 3 doors, 2 windows and glass panels at the front end of the cottage. At night the natural flames create a warm glow. 

The Rondenkraal cottage is set within an old, stone-walled horse kraal, in a field of yellow grass or flowers, in the middle of nowhere, on the aptly-named Moedverloorpad (“losing will road”).

There are several thoughtful seating areas facing different directions, to make the most of the rising and setting sun and deep shade. A photographer’s paradise, there is texture and colour everywhere – thatch, stone walls, windmills, fynbos, rolling hills and big skies with cotton clouds. Thanks to the stone kraal wall and vast open fields, the privacy of the cottage impresses me. Usually rather a prude, I am so alone here that even I walk freely between bathroom and bedroom with the windows and doors wide open.

The cottage has a classical long-barn shape which is typical of this area. What gives it a modern twist is the glass wall at the top end of the cottage. Inside there is a pleasing aesthetic, with thick stone walls and recessed windows, old wooden furniture and an open-plan layout. At the top end of the cottage, the inviting lounge has rich red wingback rocking chairs facing the fireplace. In the middle of the cottage, the kitchen is well-equipped with a full sized fridge, gas stove and oven, and a stove-top espresso pot. A friendly dining table divides the living area from the sleeping area. The bedroom is pretty - a double bed with a white mosquito net, white linen and a soft tartan blanket. Finally, there is a bathroom at the other end of the cottage, with a deep ball-and-claw bath, as well as an outdoor shower.

Accommodation Experience:

I light every one of the paraffin lamps, as well as making a fire – it is the main entertainment here at night. I am tired from the long trip - in a good way. Sunburnt, physically sore from too much exploration of the wonderful surrounds, I am left feeling a bit old and weathered. There is a safe vulnerability that this Namaqua landscape brings. Strange contradictions unhinge me – the dry vastness contrasted with the myriad of pretty flowers; the lack of keys in the doors and the sense of complete safety; the organic, rustic nature of this cottage along with the containing, thick stone walls; the simple but ample equipment to meet every need without the back-lit technology and excess which keep us distanced from ourselves.

It is a choice whether to engage this gentle undressing of all pretences and distractions. There is plenty to do in the area if one needs diversions. But I sense that my only task tonight is to sit here alone and give in to this experience of vulnerable openness and see to which new destination it takes me.

The Lighthouse, Yzerfontein

Heaven on Earth

If there is a heaven, and if I should make it there, and if by any chance one may pre-order a heavenly home – I choose this one. Too many “ifs” and I shall rather enjoy heaven on earth, here and now. In true heaven-sent style, I look onto white – white linen, white curtains, white walls, white floors, white beach sands and white spray on the blue-grey sea. Even my cotton pajamas are white. The white ceiling ends in a lighthouse-style round skylight, creating a halo above my bed.

I am at the Lighthouse (see www.lighthouselocation.com), a glamorous beach house, and actual movie set. It is right on the beach, in the pristine little coastal hamlet of Yzerfontein. So close to Cape Town one can actually see Table Mountain across the bay, many of these enviable homes are also available as holiday rental villas. The Lighthouse is a spacious 3-bedroom family-friendly home, with an additional two fully equipped granny flats which may be hired separately or together.

The serene décor is perfectly balanced with every possible luxury – integrated sound system, dishwashing machine, fully fitted kitchen, indoor and outdoor fireplaces, heated towel rails, under-floor heating and marble tiling in the bathrooms. The upstairs deep bath is set against a bank of sash windows, overlooking the bay. Downstairs there is a spacious sauna with a glass front to views of the ocean. One needs a week here just to experience every aspect of this beautifully designed home.

Accommodation Experience:

I sit in bed with 180 degree sea views. It is a calm grey morning after last night's ostentatious sunset. The sun rising makes the skies pale orange. In the far distance there is a light from an actual lighthouse which comes and goes, and one can imagine its circular motion. From my enviable tower bedroom I wonder if the owners of this beach house have saved some orphans in a previous life to be so lucky to return to such a haven. I chuckle, realising that I have actually worked with orphaned children and still I do not feel worthy of such bliss. I guess none of us really deserve or could ever earn or own such happiness, and yet paradoxically such beauty is all around us and is a gift freely given for the receiving. The Hafiz poem goes on to say:

There are so many gifts

Still unopened from your birthday

There are so many handcrafted presents

That have been sent to you by God.

The Beloved does not mind repeating,

"Everything I have is also yours."

Strandloper Boutique Hotel, Paternoster

A New Brand of Luxury

Here’s an idea: Pack yourself an elegant weekend bag (include camera), hop on a flight to Cape Town, pick up a snazzy little convertible, and head up the West coast for a weekend of spectacular scenery, fabulous food and inspiring accommodation. But beware – though there is much to do and see to distract oneself, the soulful nature of the West Coast will catch up with you in the end, to reconnect you with your true self. 

Working too hard for too long, I finally plan such a trip. Being in a demanding, stressy frame of mind, I know exactly what I want – a crisp white space (soulful rather than sterile), with doors opening right onto the beach, in a natural place of great beauty. Oh and of course I must have a heavenly bath with sea views. Not a lot to ask really. I search with intensity, unwilling to compromise on any one of these stringent criteria. And so when I open the website of the Strandloper Boutique Hotel (www.strandloperocean.com ), I give a tight little gasp and set about determinedly to get what I wanted.

I had been expecting the highest quality finesse and impeccable standards of service, and the Strandloper Boutique Hotel did not fail to deliver on this score. But what I had not expected was a soft honesty that came from the organic touches in the décor, the traditional blue-grey and white buildings of the area, the white endless beaches and the turquoise seas.

Aptly named after the original beach walker inhabitants, the luxury hotel is set at the far end of the town of Paternoster and at the edge of a vast natural beach and fynbos nature reserve. Standalone suites, more like individual villas, face outwards towards the sea or open grasslands. Rimless glass doors fold back invisbly or wooden sliding doors recess into the adjacent walls to connect the interior and exterior. Thick whitewashed walls with deep-set shuttered windows and grey-blue painted frames give a Cycladean Greek Islands feel while honouring the traditional fisher cottage architecture of the region. White muslin curtains catch the gentle sea breeze.

The suites have cleverly integrated luxuries, including air-conditioning, Nespresso coffee machines, and heated towel rails. Heavenly wide baths and outdoor showers make the most of the ocean and nature views. In my spacious suite there are two indoor seating areas and a full scale dining table. There are two outdoor seating areas, one perfectly placed sundowner table and chairs, as well as two cushioned recliners.  

The service is professional and friendly, and the meals are everything that one would ask of a seaside luxury resort in the food capital of the West Coast. The accomplished chef makes the most of local produce - seafood of course, but also local olives, cheeses and sun-dried fruit.

Accommodation Experience:

There is a new brand of luxury accommodation emerging. It has less to do with ostentatious bling and more to do with soulful contact with nature. Think full height glass windows and doors, outdoor seating areas to make the most of morning and evening sun, understated and organic décor, smooth floors and beachfront settings. This is barefoot luxury at its best.

From my ocean-front suite at the Strandloper Boutique Hotel, I sit in bed with the sounds, smells and sea breeze within touching distance. It is almost dawn and the setting moon spills over the sea. A layer of mist gradually lifts off the ocean and the curl of the waves begin to catch the rising sun. I feel a bit foolish about my intense and suspicious demands and allow an interior softening to the loveliness of this place. 

While a place like this creatively makes the most of its stunning setting, I realize one cannot create or control such moments, only gratefully receive them as they are given. The great Persian poet Hafiz writes:

There are so many gifts

Still unopened from your birthday

There are so many handcrafted presents

That have been sent to you by God.