Strandloper Boutique Hotel, Paternoster

A New Brand of Luxury

Here’s an idea: Pack yourself an elegant weekend bag (include camera), hop on a flight to Cape Town, pick up a snazzy little convertible, and head up the West coast for a weekend of spectacular scenery, fabulous food and inspiring accommodation. But beware – though there is much to do and see to distract oneself, the soulful nature of the West Coast will catch up with you in the end, to reconnect you with your true self. 

Working too hard for too long, I finally plan such a trip. Being in a demanding, stressy frame of mind, I know exactly what I want – a crisp white space (soulful rather than sterile), with doors opening right onto the beach, in a natural place of great beauty. Oh and of course I must have a heavenly bath with sea views. Not a lot to ask really. I search with intensity, unwilling to compromise on any one of these stringent criteria. And so when I open the website of the Strandloper Boutique Hotel (www.strandloperocean.com ), I give a tight little gasp and set about determinedly to get what I wanted.

I had been expecting the highest quality finesse and impeccable standards of service, and the Strandloper Boutique Hotel did not fail to deliver on this score. But what I had not expected was a soft honesty that came from the organic touches in the décor, the traditional blue-grey and white buildings of the area, the white endless beaches and the turquoise seas.

Aptly named after the original beach walker inhabitants, the luxury hotel is set at the far end of the town of Paternoster and at the edge of a vast natural beach and fynbos nature reserve. Standalone suites, more like individual villas, face outwards towards the sea or open grasslands. Rimless glass doors fold back invisbly or wooden sliding doors recess into the adjacent walls to connect the interior and exterior. Thick whitewashed walls with deep-set shuttered windows and grey-blue painted frames give a Cycladean Greek Islands feel while honouring the traditional fisher cottage architecture of the region. White muslin curtains catch the gentle sea breeze.

The suites have cleverly integrated luxuries, including air-conditioning, Nespresso coffee machines, and heated towel rails. Heavenly wide baths and outdoor showers make the most of the ocean and nature views. In my spacious suite there are two indoor seating areas and a full scale dining table. There are two outdoor seating areas, one perfectly placed sundowner table and chairs, as well as two cushioned recliners.  

The service is professional and friendly, and the meals are everything that one would ask of a seaside luxury resort in the food capital of the West Coast. The accomplished chef makes the most of local produce - seafood of course, but also local olives, cheeses and sun-dried fruit.

Accommodation Experience:

There is a new brand of luxury accommodation emerging. It has less to do with ostentatious bling and more to do with soulful contact with nature. Think full height glass windows and doors, outdoor seating areas to make the most of morning and evening sun, understated and organic décor, smooth floors and beachfront settings. This is barefoot luxury at its best.

From my ocean-front suite at the Strandloper Boutique Hotel, I sit in bed with the sounds, smells and sea breeze within touching distance. It is almost dawn and the setting moon spills over the sea. A layer of mist gradually lifts off the ocean and the curl of the waves begin to catch the rising sun. I feel a bit foolish about my intense and suspicious demands and allow an interior softening to the loveliness of this place. 

While a place like this creatively makes the most of its stunning setting, I realize one cannot create or control such moments, only gratefully receive them as they are given. The great Persian poet Hafiz writes:

There are so many gifts

Still unopened from your birthday

There are so many handcrafted presents

That have been sent to you by God.

Hamilton's Tented Camp, Kruger National Park

Natural Connection

Following an 1880’s Africa Explorer theme, Hamilton’s Tented Camp is everything that luxury safari accommodation should be. Romantic tented suites are spaced far apart under ancient Jackalberry Trees, connected by raised wooden walkways. Set in a private concession right within the central, Big 5 game-rich area of the Kruger National Park between Skukuza and Satara, visitors have access to exclusive roads as well as their own private game viewing deck, with each suite overlooking a different curve of the Nwatsitsontso River.

The tents embrace the safari theme, with khaki-green canvas walls, oil lamps, a colonial style writing desk, old trunks and glossy wooden floors. The extra-wide King size beds have fine white linen and are draped with white mosquito nets. With air-conditioning, electricity, a generous wardrobe, thick, soft, white robes and towels, a glorious slipper bath overlooking the river and a private outdoor shower, this stay is both traditional and sumptuous.

We choose to stay in Tent 6, the furthest away from the restaurant, overlooking open bushveld. The suite is surrounded by windows, with two sets of double doors opening onto the riverfront deck. From the suite we see giraffe gliding past above the trees, and we hear an elephant munching. In the night we hear the call of hyena and hippos grunting, and we wake to the sound of a lion roaring so close by we need no further motivation to get up and head out for the morning game drive.

Back at camp after a successful morning drive, delicious meals are served at individual tables on an expansive deck overlooking the river. We watch an African Civet cat slink through the grass right below the deck and we drink a toast to our happy discovery of this wonderful place.

Accommodation Experience:

Sometimes the most intense loneliness comes within a relationship. With age comes the growing chasm of different interests, unspoken fears, and small slights opening deep wounds. Yet arriving at Hamilton’s luxurious and romantic Tented Camp, it is instantly clear that any divide between us had never really existed except in our own imagination. We immediately forget our sniping and become connected by our sense of shared joy at each new discovery. We move enthusiastically from exhilirating game drives to glorious meals, to heavenly bubble baths, to massages in our beautiful suite.

By evening we are sitting peacefully on our private balcony, relaxing in comfy Morris chairs. We enjoy sun-downers overlooking the river where a Saddle-billed Stork lands clumsily amongst the reeds. We both spontaneously admit that we would prefer to skip the evening game drive and enjoy our lovely view and the silence of our corner of the camp. 

Psychologist James Finley says that one of the best ways out of an impasse in a relationship is to be real and vulnerable about your own experience in the relationship. Soon we find ourselves speaking honestly about our fears and longings. In such a beautiful riverside setting, the words come easily and the feelings are gently held by the natural environment. A fresh breeze blows through our relationship, thanks to this caring accommodation situated in this unspoilt corner of the earth.

Goble Palms, Morningside, Durban

Edwardian Haven

The description of “a beautiful Edwardian Lodge, set high up on the ridge, overlooking the sea, in Morningside” was more than enough for me and I made my cheerful way to Goble Palms during mid-winter in ever mild and sunny Durban.

A Regency girl at heart, I was not disappointed by the grand scale of the rooms, high windows and double doors. True to their slogan “Contemporary Colonial Comfort”, the decor at Goble palms is opulent, rich and embracing. Oversized furniture matches the spaciousness of the rooms, while pale taupe brushed linen curtains and blinds provide a calming effect. Soft white cottons are offset against dark wooden furniture. Gilded lamp stands and carved golden mirrors punctuate the look with glamour.

What I love about Goble Palms:

• Interconnected Edwardian buildings with a clever use of space and rooms facing different directions
• Conveniently situated in a quiet, green suburb and high on a hill, but with easy access to Durban central or Durban North
• A multitude of verandahs and patios make the most of every aspect of the Durban sunshine and sea breezes
• High windows and double doors allow the rooms to feel light and airy despite their size
• Ball and claw baths face onto green palms outside
• Thick carpets, comfy couches, tiled bathrooms and cool white cotton bed-linen
• Friendly and professional staff
• Complementary sherry and Amarula liquor

Accommodation Experience:

I have heard it said that an extrovert draws energy from being with people, whereas an introvert draws energy from time alone. Goble Palms certainly caters for both – for the extroverts it is well placed near the trendy restaurants and clubs of Florida Road, while the manor house itself has plentiful indoor and outdoor seating areas, creating small and larger sociable spaces in which to gather and process the day’s adventures in the company of others. However, I fall into the latter category, and after a week of intensive training, I am seeking solitude and stillness to recharge my social batteries. 

I am delighted to find my room both private and open to the lovely rustling palms. I partake in a strange, furtive dance, sneaking between my room and the communal lounge to swap mammoth, delectable decor books, one after another. I spend a happy, calm evening enjoying the books, my favourite pieces of music and the cool Durban breeze from my open double doors and bay windows. As dark falls, the glow of my bedside lamps create a halo effect of my four-poster mosquito net, contributing to the tranquil haven. As my stress levels decrease, I can indeed feel my creative and outgoing energy rising and soon I will be ready to go out into the world again with enthusiasm and zest – but perhaps not quite yet ...

Rodwell House, St James

Bringing out the best

I ended my work day irritable, held hostage in a small room for too many unnecessary hours. I felt the most scratchy, ungrateful version of myself and struggled to let go of my grudge against my unproductive captor. Yet as I hit the classical St James high street, I couldn’t help but break out into a wide smile, especially knowing where I was headed. 

It is great fun finding a grand character building which represents the quintessential local architectural style of a quintessentially characterful area. The 1930’s Rodwell House in classical St James, Cape Town, not only rivals its neighbours in representing the typical architecture of the area, but it is situated in the most enviable position, overlooking the famous brightly coloured wooden huts of St James Beach. The house is set well back from the main road, and views over the estate’s pool and St James Tidal Pool beyond, stretch far out to the sea in the distance. The house backs onto an impressive mountain and there are striking vistas up the cliffs to the bluest of skies above.

I stay in the elegant Rodwell Suite, the scale of which is difficult to capture on camera. There are two seating areas and an indoor fireplace. A bank of windows maximises the fabulous views, as does the balcony onto which a private entrance opens. The suite has plush beige carpets, cream curtains with matching upholstered chairs and couch. An ochre  headboard resonates with the golden wood of the furniture, and a trendy tan leather reclining chair completes the effect. The look is very grown-up without being in the least bit staid. It has clearly been prepared by someone experienced in providing the best that accommodation establishments can offer.

What I love about Rodwell House:

• The house itself is typical of the St James vernacular – a solid square stone double-storey building with deep arched verandahs and two perfectly symmetrical wings.
• The setting over St James beach is softened by the long garden in front of the house, with a full length swimming pool, flanked by green covered pergolas on either side.
• The entrance boasts a grand staircase and the main house and suites are full of antiques.
• The House is also an art gallery and beautiful pieces of 20^th-Century richly-coloured art work are displayed throughout.
• The impressive lounge has a fireplace, deep red walls and matching patterned rugs.
• Fabulous local cuisine is served in the bistro, or if it is quiet and cool intimate tables are brought into the lounge with a lit fire.
• The service is warm, attentive and kind, and one is soon made to feel that this is one’s very own private estate.
• The suites are spacious and stylishly decorated, with thoughtful attention to comfort, and with calm matching colours.
• The bathrooms are beautifully modern, also managing a balance between being spacious and warm.
• An enormous bath is gently back-lit with stylish lighting, reflecting down onto the large cream ceramic floor tiles and glossy fittings.

Accommodation Experience:

Sometimes once the initial excitement of a character stay settles, one also quite simply wishes for a good night’s sleep. I spread out in my huge soft bed, one of the most comfortable I have ever lain in. While I am reluctant to turn out the lights of my gorgeous suite, when I finally do I am pleased to find that the thick curtains are properly lined with blackout backing – yet another sign of thoughtful attention about the needs of perhaps a more mature traveller.

I lie there musing that some luxury accommodation brings out the worst in us – making us feel entitled, arrogant or even inferior. But other times, when we find a combination of elegance, kindness and warmth, it makes us feel humbled and deeply grateful. This is what I experienced at Rodwell House, which encouraged me to be a better version of myself. Who could have thought that my day and attitude could have been turned round so completely in only a few short hours – going from resentful and sorry for myself to feeling one of the luckiest people alive to have the privilege of staying in such a lovely place.