Blackwood Log Cabin, Hout Bay

Wordless prayer

This is one of those places where I walked in and the view simply took my breath away. I moved spellbound towards the deck, while the poor hostess bounced in front of me trying to catch my attention to explain various practicalities. I waved her away with a glazed smile, and opened every one of the glass doors to let the cool forest breeze and astounding mountain views in.

As I walked out onto the deck I breathed deeply, remembering why I have always loved Hout Bay. It is a thickly forested green haven, close to Cape Town, with a pretty, winding, tall-tree-lined road into town. It has easy access to beautiful beaches like Llandudno, Camps Bay, Noordhoek and the spectacular Chapman’s Peak drive. But best of all, it is surrounded by towering mountains, with two perfectly-placed gaps between the mountains – one allowing fresh morning sunlight to spill over the back of Table Mountain, the other parting from the sea side allows late golden light to shine up the valley, where long evenings may be spent enjoying sundowners on the deck while many other parts of Cape Town are already in the shadow of the mountain.

And within this pristine setting I find the perfect Hout Bay accommodation – Blackwood Log Cabin Mountain Retreat. A glamorous yet natural wooden house set high up a hill in the thick forest setting, the house has been designed to maximize the views on every front. The lounge is conservatory style, with surround glass doors opening onto the deck which faces in three directions. Even the bedrooms have ceiling-to-floor glass all round. And of course one of my favourite things – a freestanding bath set up against a bank of windows with forest and mountain views and cool breezes to offset the warm water.

The cabin is a freestanding villa, with a well fitted, full scale kitchen, open plan dining and lounge area. The lounge is decorated with a natural, organic touch, including woven lamps, baskets and hanging rows of flat, pearly shells on the walls. The look is not too earthy-crunchy though, and it is sophisticated and modern, with a clean-lined grey couch and a Kelim rug. There are two private bedrooms and two full bathrooms, one with bath and one with shower. There is an indoor fireplace and outdoor barbeque area, with 3 lovely outdoor seating areas, and a hammock. The lodge has its own private swimming pool.

Accommodation Experience:

I was supposed to be working on a big report which was due at the end of the month. But when a colleague phoned to ask about my progress, my reply was simple – “It’s too beautiful.” She chuckled and left me in peace.

I lay on the hammock on the deck, perfectly shaded from the hot afternoon sun, a cool breeze blowing across me. I wanted to pray, but, like Mary Oliver, "I have not forgotten the Way, but, a little, the way to the Way". My prayer came out in a wordless combination of request and gratitude – a silent and deep thanks for this place and moment, all that had come before and all that was yet to come and for the hope and certainty of a life well lived.

Cape Heritage Hotel, Cape Town

Celebration of local, traditional and modern

This is one of the best city hotels I have ever stayed at. With a penchant for character, I have always been drawn to historic hotels. This is not without its risks – think musty curtains, dodgy plumbing, creaking stairs and dark, pokey rooms. Not this one. I don’t quite know how they have done it, but the Cape Heritage Hotel in Cape Town is the perfect blend of old and new.

One of the oldest buildings in Cape Town, the hotel has been perfectly preserved. The walls are at least half a meter thick, with deep-set sash windows. The original wooden stairs are solid (and cleverly carpeted in the middle). There are fresh, modern fabrics throughout and the décor is both tasteful and creative. Local vibrant South African art celebrates the context and brings colour and texture to every room. Beautiful modern-but-traditional wall-mounted lights fittings and chandelier add elegance and grandeur. The hotel prides itself on its glamorous and spacious bathrooms, which are a delight to experience.

A sumptuous breakfast is served in the sunny courtyard next to the oldest living grape vine in the city.

Accommodation Experience:

Unusually, I choose one of the standard rooms at the Cape Heritage Hotel, because I have fallen in love with the elegant bath placed in the bedroom up against a high window. The bed is equally pretty and superbly comfortable. I wake early and roll over to find a perfectly positioned light fitting within easy reach. I look around and realise that every single luxury feature in the room is well chosen, and perhaps more importantly, functions effectively. There are thoughtful extra touches – a well placed extending mirror in the bathroom, a glass jar with cotton wool, a heated towel rail. I have a moment, like at the end of a great stage performance, where I want to first sit silently nodding in appreciation, then break out in quiet, slow, lengthy applause.

Brenaissance Wine Estate, Stellenbosch

Moment of Gratitude

Here’s a happy find – beautifully decorated and luxurious rooms on a wine estate near Stellenbosch in the Western Cape. Primarily a wedding venue, Brenaissance Wine State offers sophisticated accommodation in rooms overlooking a pretty chapel, vineyards and mountains beyond.

French country-themed rooms with stylish black and white décor are cool and inviting. The large, white porcelain tiles, silver-framed mirrors, sparkling chandelier and clean white linen have a calming, and at the same time pampering effect. A felt throw, provincial style cushions and thick-pile grey carpets lend warmth and texture to the scene.

Accommodation Experience:

For once I am not travelling alone for work. I celebrate this pleasing situation by booking us into the “Bridal Suite” at Brenaissance, a romantic luxurious room decorated in cool white, silver and grey. 

The walls are painted in quirky, wide silver and white stripes and the white-painted exposed roof trusses add instant character. The bathroom has a gorgeous slipper bath, double vanity, double shower and chandelier. The room is well situated at the far end of the row of rooms, with a private patio complete with loveseat.

We sit outside appreciating the view and the marvelous rich, oak-matured red wine produced on the estate. As our cheeks turn rose-coloured, so do the mountains, lit by the gradually setting sun.

The Jewish concept of Dayenu comes to mind – “it would have been sufficient”. Dayenu is said or sung in gratitude for leading us this far in life - if we had only received this freedom, that would have been enough. And of course the song implies that we have received so many more gifts than that. We cannot know what the future brings, but for that which we already have received we are grateful – for bringing us safely to this moment in time, for our freedom, for our relationships and for our life and energy.

Rodwell House, St James

Bringing out the best

I ended my work day irritable, held hostage in a small room for too many unnecessary hours. I felt the most scratchy, ungrateful version of myself and struggled to let go of my grudge against my unproductive captor. Yet as I hit the classical St James high street, I couldn’t help but break out into a wide smile, especially knowing where I was headed. 

It is great fun finding a grand character building which represents the quintessential local architectural style of a quintessentially characterful area. The 1930’s Rodwell House in classical St James, Cape Town, not only rivals its neighbours in representing the typical architecture of the area, but it is situated in the most enviable position, overlooking the famous brightly coloured wooden huts of St James Beach. The house is set well back from the main road, and views over the estate’s pool and St James Tidal Pool beyond, stretch far out to the sea in the distance. The house backs onto an impressive mountain and there are striking vistas up the cliffs to the bluest of skies above.

I stay in the elegant Rodwell Suite, the scale of which is difficult to capture on camera. There are two seating areas and an indoor fireplace. A bank of windows maximises the fabulous views, as does the balcony onto which a private entrance opens. The suite has plush beige carpets, cream curtains with matching upholstered chairs and couch. An ochre  headboard resonates with the golden wood of the furniture, and a trendy tan leather reclining chair completes the effect. The look is very grown-up without being in the least bit staid. It has clearly been prepared by someone experienced in providing the best that accommodation establishments can offer.

What I love about Rodwell House:

• The house itself is typical of the St James vernacular – a solid square stone double-storey building with deep arched verandahs and two perfectly symmetrical wings.
• The setting over St James beach is softened by the long garden in front of the house, with a full length swimming pool, flanked by green covered pergolas on either side.
• The entrance boasts a grand staircase and the main house and suites are full of antiques.
• The House is also an art gallery and beautiful pieces of 20^th-Century richly-coloured art work are displayed throughout.
• The impressive lounge has a fireplace, deep red walls and matching patterned rugs.
• Fabulous local cuisine is served in the bistro, or if it is quiet and cool intimate tables are brought into the lounge with a lit fire.
• The service is warm, attentive and kind, and one is soon made to feel that this is one’s very own private estate.
• The suites are spacious and stylishly decorated, with thoughtful attention to comfort, and with calm matching colours.
• The bathrooms are beautifully modern, also managing a balance between being spacious and warm.
• An enormous bath is gently back-lit with stylish lighting, reflecting down onto the large cream ceramic floor tiles and glossy fittings.

Accommodation Experience:

Sometimes once the initial excitement of a character stay settles, one also quite simply wishes for a good night’s sleep. I spread out in my huge soft bed, one of the most comfortable I have ever lain in. While I am reluctant to turn out the lights of my gorgeous suite, when I finally do I am pleased to find that the thick curtains are properly lined with blackout backing – yet another sign of thoughtful attention about the needs of perhaps a more mature traveller.

I lie there musing that some luxury accommodation brings out the worst in us – making us feel entitled, arrogant or even inferior. But other times, when we find a combination of elegance, kindness and warmth, it makes us feel humbled and deeply grateful. This is what I experienced at Rodwell House, which encouraged me to be a better version of myself. Who could have thought that my day and attitude could have been turned round so completely in only a few short hours – going from resentful and sorry for myself to feeling one of the luckiest people alive to have the privilege of staying in such a lovely place. 

Dutch Manor Antique Hotel, Cape Town

 

I had been on the road for a few days and was beginning to doubt whether yet another character stay was a good choice, especially since I was in Cape Town on business and needed convenience and maximal efficiency with the limited time I had available in the evenings. And driving into town to the 1812 Dutch Manor Antique Hotel I had a moment of panic that it would be stuffy, musty, dark and noisy in the middle of the city, and that the staff would disappear after I had arrived, leaving me nervous and alone.

All my imagined concerns were completely unwarranted – I find the Dutch Manor Antique Hotel spacious, light, fresh and friendly, with the most helpful and enthusiastic staff. The highest windows I have ever seen let the sun stream in, while original wooden shutters and heavy, lined curtains mute the city sounds. Solid antique Yellowwood and Mahogany furniture and enormous thick old doors grace every part of the hotel. Spacious modern bathrooms, only just renovated, with matching Charlotte Rhys bathroom products, are offset with traditional touches like toiletries which are presented in a white lace-trimmed purse. A 200 year old leather couch sits in prime position in the lounge, with views of the Cape streets below.

What I love about the Dutch Manor Antique Hotel:

• There is a genuine commitment to the historical theme throughout the hotel
• Antiques really are everywhere and create a feast for the senses and imagination
• Heavy local timber doors, windows and furniture lend gravitas to every room
• Individually decorated rooms have bold colours with traditional Cape Dutch themes
• The friendliest, most helpful staff are available at any time of day or night
• The hotel is in a convenient setting, in one of the oldest streets in Cape Town, with easy access to all the major tourist attractions
• Fine linen, freshly renovated bathrooms and beautiful bath products make this a luxurious stay

Accommodation Experience

My bed is so high it takes me a moment to strategise how to climb onto it. Once there, I admire the spectacular 4-metre high window with its original wooden shutters and thick, extra-length curtains. The bed is a four-poster, which feels solid and comforting, with its thick, chocolate brown posts. The curtained back and sides of the bed, with a ruffled frill around the top create a cosy canopy, in which it is easy to escape to the past.

I imagine travelling in 1812, under harsh and uncomfortable conditions, to arrive at this inviting, beautiful space, and the sense of relief and gladness people must have felt to settle into this lovely room. I sink back into the curtains behind the bed and enjoy a strong cup of coffee in a classically Dutch-shaped coffee cup. I run my hands along the fine thread-count white linen and sigh my own sigh of relief.

This feels like a character stay where people of this place revel in your delight of the antiques, and they seem to do everything possible to make your time here comfortable, convenient and interesting. There is no sense of withholding or tourist trickery here – only a sensational place for a weary traveller to rest and be inspired by the past and present of Africa and the spectacular Mother City of Cape Town.