Hawksmoor House, Stellenbosch

Extending time

 

This is my second stay at Hawksmoor House and I start to wonder how they organise such intensity of blue skies each time I visit. It is so blue it lifts the soul instantly. You would have to be a seriously miserable person to be unhappy here.

The artistically landscaped gardens offer many delights. Someone has considered the movement of light over the property and throughout the day there are back-lit gems of all colour and shape.

Within the historic homestead, artistic decor picks up on the rich blue skies, red vines, green-lit Oaks and purple lavender. Around every corner there is a surprise and one is drawn into fascinating spaces with each vibrant, sunlit wall and perfectly balanced piece of antique furniture. The choice of colour for each room becomes especially clear in the late afternoon when the slanting light reflected off the long koi pond creates a play of interconnecting hues.

No lazy, tourist-pleasing pseudo-African decorating here - this no faux wine estate or country fake new build. It is intensely local, a 300 year old Cape Dutch thatched grand house surrounded by rambling outbuildings. And being on a real working wine and fruit farm, you feel local and privileged to enter this space. 

I give a gasp as an enormous (and may I say very well endowed) bull walks right past my low window. I am relieved to see he is on the other side of a fence and we spend a good few minutes staring at one another in equal fascination. It seems he got as much of a fright seeing me as I him and despite his size and ferocious look, I gather he is a bit frightened of the wind and seeking company rather than trouble. I stop short of offering a cuddle.

One of the best value luxury stays South Africa has to offer, I recommend this place to everyone I can. It is perfectly placed to access the Cape Town International airport, the wine farms and restaurants of Paarl, Wellington, Stellenbosch, and even Franschhoek and Cape Town itself. If you can bear to leave that is - Hawksmoor specialises in deep, beautiful baths, quality white linen, antique furniture, dramatic decor and double French doors letting in a splay of golden light and leading onto characterful outdoor seating areas. Most surprisingly, all this comes without primp or petulance, with the hosts offering warm, genuinely friendly and helpful hospitality such that your stay here will simply never be long enough.

Accommodation experience

Indeed the days are too short here and I wish to apply for an official extension of time at the magical space that is Hawksmoor House. The weather puts on such a spectacular show that it takes me a while to settle. The sky turns even bluer now, almost purple in its insistence. Fortunately my camera battery dies and I am forced to spend a slow sunset simply sitting on my private balcony where this place does indeed perform its magic on me. I am able to extend my time here through a portal into presence, a different time dimension altogether. 

Here there are delicious moments which extend downwards, rather than horizontally, into infinite sensory experiences which stretch even to the future where I am able to access them as I write. The experience of the sun streaming into my room, the layering of a valley with trees and mist, the tinny call of a guinea fowl, a row of impossibly straight ducks flying slowly past my open doors, a hawk caught on an updraught, suspended in time like me. If I could stay in this state, here on this natural patch of earth, I am sure I could live forever.

La Residence Villas, Franschhoek

Rhythms of Grace

I recommend a week’s personal retreat at La Residence Villas in Franschhoek (see www.laresidence.co.za). A row of stylish garden suites, the magical healing formula of these villas is a holistic combination of dramatic views, glamorous décor, clever design and impeccable service. Create your own unique package, choosing from a lengthy menu of treatments, including idle flotation in blue-grey swimming pools, massages and various spa options, fabulous food and wine to lift any spirits, and a kind ear of hospitable staff.

Of course my treatment of choice is simply to gaze upon the rich and creative décor of each suite at La Residence. Sumptuous and daring combinations of purple, cerise and gold hues do their work on my psyche. I marvel at the artistic combinations of colours created by our very own South African version of Trisha Guild, Liz Biden. Marbled floors, gilded mirrors, floating chandelier, and upholstered headboards come together in a fusion of antique meets modern.

Renowned for over-the-top luxurious bathrooms, each bathroom at La Residence is a veritable suite unto itself. Here many restorative hydrotherapy hours may be spent, accompanied by sensual Charlotte Rhys products and mountain or botanical views.

Each of the five villas has a different compilation of rooms but looks outwards onto the Franschhoek mountains and La Residence vineyards and plum orchards. Designed with families in mind, the spacious villas of La Residence are a place of freedom to relax and be oneself.

Accommodation experience:

I have come back to Franschhoek for the many inspiring activities in the area – touring wine farms, eating at some of the world’s best restaurants, shopping, walking and cycling. Yet in this sumptuous haven of La Residence, I find myself unwilling to leave the beauty of my suite. I struggle with this urge to sink mindfully into the simple experience of staying in, with a sense of guilt at letting go of my inconsequential plans. But sometimes the mind and body simply know what they want, and it is necessary to forgo one’s enthusiastic predetermined ideas to follow the deeper rhythms of grace. I gratefully succumb to this invitation to do exactly as I please, to restore my energy and sense of balance.

La Residence, Franschhoek

Artful Kindness

In any part of the world, if you follow the artists, they will lead you to places of golden light. This is true of the village of Franschhoek, one of the loveliest places on earth. Artists of all kinds have settled here – photographers, painters, musicians, writers, winemakers, food artists, and of course accommodation artists. And one such artist is Liz Biden, creative genius behind La Residence Luxury Hotel and Villas (http://www.laresidence.co.za/).

Daring and deft, to be recognised as a world class artist, one must have both exceptional skills and be willing to push the boundaries of creativity. Finally at the last minute, it is necessary to reign this verve back in with a 6^th sense of restraint. Each room at La Residence shows a dazzling display of colours, materials and influences which pushes luxury accommodation into a whole new level of opulence. Sumptuous fabrics, bold hues and antiques are contrasted and then perfectly balanced in each of the individually decorated suites. It is for this that the South African Tourism Board should create a six star rating, in honour of Liz Biden’s Royal Portfolio.

I stay in the Frangipani Suite, in the downstairs corner of the East Wing. Here a brave fusion of Far Eastern and French Chateaux style is balanced within a South African setting (don’t try this at home). Fitted throughout in creamy white and grey marble, the calm look is offset by rich red and gold Eastern wall hangings and gold Louis XV chairs. Floating muslin curtains mute the full height curved window and double doors. The raised four-poster bed surrounds one with marble.

But of course I choose this suite for its resplendent Versaille Hall of Mirrors bathroom. “Yes, Liz does like big bathrooms” says my host drily. Indeed I estimate the bathroom to be at least 5 X 6 meters in size. Wall to wall mirrors surround one from a deep double slipper bath placed centrally in the room. Glass double doors frame vineyard and mountain views.

What I love about La Residence:

• There are sensory delights throughout the hotel, with delightful pairing of colours, textures and styles.
• Each suite faces onto mountain and vineyard views and Franschhoek-blue skies.
• The gardens have been cleverly designed for privacy and interest, with green hedges, roses, wisteria and irises.
• Peacock and Guinea Fowl punctuate the stillness. In the early morning an owl softly hoots from the roof.
• High double doors and enormous windows bring the outdoors into every room.
• Splendid bathrooms each have their own unique features and verve.
• Local Charlotte Rhys bath products create fragrant delights.
• La Residence wins both my bath towel and bathrobe award. The white towels are plentiful, thick and soft, heated by warm towel rails. There is a choice of bath robes – a cream, silk summer kimono and a heavier suede-like pale gown.
• The bed is dressed in the finest monogrammed cotton linen.
• There is temperature-controlled under-floor heating throughout the vast suite.
• Gilded mirrors decorate the entrance to the suite, where there is complementary tea, coffee, mini-bar and snacks.
• Crystal chandeliers abound, as does poignant original wall art.
• There is a separate working area with a desk.
• The upstairs suites have high pitched roofs with exposed roof trusses.
• The accomplished chef serves an array of light yet full-flavoured, sophisticated courses.
• The day ends with a turndown service with gifts of handmade Belgian chocolates filled with plums from the estate.

Accommodation experience:

I am a little ashamed to say I have 3 lengthy bathes within the space of my 20 hours at La Residence. But it feels like the personnel here would only be delighted at the compliment. And what impresses me at the end of the day, aside from the general splendour, sumptuous décor and breath-taking scenery, is the simple kindness of the staff at La Residence. I saw one staff member assist a rather brittle elderly gentleman, desperately clinging to his dignity, with care and grace. At dinner the waitrons and sommelier moved in formation to ensure I did not feel lonely. One waitron confessed “I am so lucky to work here. This becomes like your family.” There was a sense of everyone playing their part in putting up an interesting and fun show for a wide range of guests. Their relaxed and caring attitude broke down the self-imposed barriers between guests and soon we were sharing enthusiastic stories of our week’s South African travels.

There is a tangible difference when a team who work in a place like this enjoy their role and appreciate each other’s company and support. This brings a softness to what could otherwise be an intimidating and ostentatious scene, which, let’s admit, brings out the worst posturing in all of us. I saw a sign while shopping in Franschhoek earlier today which said “Be kinder than necessary, for we are all battling our own demons”. Be it the onset of age, past hurts, current failures or struggles with worthiness, we are all insecure little beings at heart. And to this we should only respond with kindness and grace. It is this that I will take away with me from this creative and nourishing stay in this sumtuous place that is a celebration of all that is luxurious hospitality. 

For more information visit  http://www.laresidence.co.za/.