Kimberly Club Hotel

 Gentlemen's retreat

It can be tricky to find character stays in urban areas, but this one had long been on The List. The Kimberly Club Hotel, a grand old Victorian double storey, rests in the centre of the Kimberly city. Founded by Cecil John Rhodes in 1881, the hotel started as a gentleman’s club for the wealthy and upcoming men of Kimberly. A visitor is said to have commented that the place was “stuffed with money – more millionaires to the square foot than any other place in the word”. Famous visitors to the club included Queen Victoria and King George the VI, and the two princesses Elizabeth and Margaret.

The authentic character of a bygone era has been beautifully preserved at the Club, whilst all the modern travel conveniences have been tastefully integrated. Oozing plush comfort and old money, the hotel is hushed and solid in the midst of its busy setting. The dining and lounge areas, as well as the corridors, are full of interesting memorabilia, including a signed photograph of Prince George.

 However it is the bedrooms that appeal to me the most. The original high wooden windows and doors, with polished wood and heavy curtains lead onto private balconies. The spacious wooden floors of the bedrooms shine with polished grandeur, and the beds are high and inviting.

Accommodation experience:

The well appointed Suite 5, nicknamed “The Queen’s Room” is where I chose to stay. This choice helped to offset the feeling of invading a very male dominated space. Once I saw the lovely room, with its free standing Victorian bath, enormous double beds and high glass double doors leading onto the balcony, I quickly decided not to be offended by the chauvinistic past and throw myself into the experience of living like a queen.

I claimed my territory with a wonderful bubble bath, separated from the bedroom by a carved wooden screen. The Victorian styled amenities naturally led to reflections about what it must have been like to be a female at that time in history and I felt a surge of gratitude for all the hard work and tears of so many brave people who opened up today’s possibilities for women like me to have choices about not only what to do, but who to be in this world today.

As Cecil John Rhodes’ private secretary said “One always fared well at the Kimberly Club ... Everyone was kind and everything was well done.” And it seems that they have artfully managed to slide into a new era by celebrating the past and embracing the future.

The Old Village, Citrusdal

Gentle grounding

It is always surprising how quickly things become rural even when leaving the bigger South African cities like Cape Town. I was excited to be heading North from the Mother City, on the N7 towards the West Coast and Cederberg Mountains. Under 3 hours from the airport, following the simple directions “turn right at Piekenierskloofpass”, an old world awaits.

On the 1795 Modderfontein Farm, The Old Village at Citrusdal offers a collection of beautifully preserved self-catering cottages. With whitewashed stone walls, the deep windows enhance the crisp light of the Cederberg open skies. The decor shows off the original wood features by being simple and calm, making effective use of subtle country classics like matching florals and stripes. Touches like antique relics and green painted window shutters complete the nostalgic effect.

Of course I chose to stay in The Smithy, the oldest house in the valley. The softness of the cottage surprised me, with pretty beds, peaceful views and spotless bathrooms. The marvellous long barn-style lounge has a raised fireplace at one end, complete with wonky wooden beams. Comfortable wingback chairs and sofa make for long evenings by the fire with a bottle of Sherry and good company.

What I love about The Old Village, Citrusdal

• The commitment to the preservation of authentic and historical features and original buildings
• Thick, whitewashed stone walls, thatched roofs, green window shutters and wooden ceiling beams
• Understated and stylish country decor
• The experience of staying on a working farm, complete with donkeys and tractor
• The convenient location, just off the N7, but without sounds of traffic and a feeling of being at a remote country retreat

Accommodation experience:

It can be difficult to transition straight from a hectic work life into a holiday space. And for me characterful accommodation provides a sensory transition into relaxation. This is what I found at The Old Village in Citrusdal. I had just received some disturbing feedback about a report that I had submitted, and I felt uncomfortable in my own skin as I squirmed hard to escape the present. Yet the authentic buildings drew me out of my chaotic head space into their physical and grounding presence. As I wandered around the village cottages I could feel their wise ancient calm seep away my humiliation, leaving only a hint of sadness. The word humiliation has its roots in “humus”, to be grounded, and I found myself in a kind and comforting place to soften this fall.