Mountain movement

Some people are drawn to the stillness of mountains. I love the movement - the ever changing light, the way it creates texture in the thick grass, the energetic way the water moves here. Even as an adolescent, my soul came alive in these mountains. 

The Berg House and Cottages is one of my favourite places to witness this ever-changing light. Based in the Northern Drakensberg, near Royal Natal and Bergville, from this vantage point one looks down the length of almost the entire Drakensberg mountain range. One may simply sit on the stoep and watch the drama of light and cloud. The incredible rock formation pool is another favourite position from which to gaze upon the full range of beauty. 

The thatched cottages are both snug and stylish, with that all-import white linen, French country style decor, fireplaces and creative outdoor seating spaces. 

The best part of the stay is that they deliver the most delicious meals in a cute basket to your door, to be enjoyed with those uninterrupted views. 

The Berg House and Cottages 

Val du Charron, Wellington

Understanding fine tastes

From every aspect of this spacious guesthouse you look out onto 180 degree views of mountains, intense blue skies, ochre fields, bright green grass and vineyards. A working wine estate, Val du Charron understands fine tastes. 

A clear love of outdoor dining, open decks stretch out into the view and it is marvellous entertainment to watch each arriving guest gasp, whip out their cameras and twitter as the sun creates spectacular displays of light on the vineyards and mountains beyond.

The bedroom interiors are modern, with every possible traveller convenience. The plush carpeted rooms have been thoughtfully crafted, with built-in, stylish tea and coffee facilities, a bar fridge, airconditioning, and hairdryer. The ensuite bathroom has smooth creamy tiles and complements the room well.

An exclusive Coach House is available for small parties choosing the privacy of their own walled, well-established palm- and oak-treed setting, with a private pool. They share the same spectacular views onto the valley, mountains and big skies.

Accommodation experience
Despite the modern interiors, with no busy road or traffic rushing by, no modern houses spoiling the view, it is easy to settle quickly into an older rhythm here. On the morning of my stay I lie in bed late, guiltily listening to the gentle yoga class on the sunlit, expansive lawn below the lodge. I am sure that I am absorbing their healthy way vicariously and I feel quite cleansed and worthy by the end of our session.

Breakfast is served on a deck overlooking the pool and valley below. I choose the healthiest options, newly inspired by my yoga twisting friends. I end with freshly squeezed strawberry juice, ready for the fun day ahead.

The activities on offer are plentiful, including a raised, glass-fronted spa (once again making the most of those amazing views), wine tasting, mountain bike riding, walking and touring. But I am on a mission to find an ostrich feather lamp and head into the nearby village of Wellington for some tourist fun. White fluffy lamp under arm, well pleased with myself, I head back to the calm lodge for some much needed respite at the pale blue pool. I feel it is my duty to sample a local Chenin, super chilled and crisp.

Dinner is a vibrant affair and I choose to eat at the stylish grill. The decor is superb, artfully balancing modern, earthy and traditional.

Specialising in what South Africa does so brilliantly, red meat and wine, I select a grass fed rump and locally produced red. Locally made bread dipped into a speciality spice rub complete the experience. The waitrons are particularly good at their jobs, entertaining, full of humour, caring and efficient.

I have spent the last few work days with colleagues who are burnt out. They are pressed down, cynical, snide and their words and thoughts control them, not the other way around. They are busy, busy, busy, always frantic to snatch extra pieces of time here and there. They seem to have lost perspective on what is important, yet, more dangerously perhaps, they feel that of others and make you feel bad for your living thoughts and clear breaths. It is with a lift that I realise I am no longer in that space.

I remember this person. This version of myself now, who is not negative, harsh, despairing and always on the verge of a meltdown. Who has an actual sense of humour, great kindness and a lightness in step. Who loves the play of light and catching nature in the act of being herself. Who can make herself so light she drops through a portal of mindful presence into untapped wells of joy and wonder.

As I marvel over this realisation, the mountains and skies in this spacious place once again collude to put on a touching display of pink, blue and green. I realise in this place of open skies and beauty, I am always only a weekend away from a saner, serene, connected version of myself and vow to return to this feast for the senses sooner than later.

The Loft, Old Oak Manor, above Café Felix, Riebeek-Kasteel

Escape Fantasy

This is the kind of place where you find yourself spending much of your time imagining some series of (un)fortunate events which of course leave nobody any worse off, but where you are somehow trapped here for days on end in this loveliest of spaces, unable to return to your everyday hectic life. In this very particular and unrealistic fantasy of ‘circumstances beyond your control’ you are nonetheless nourished throughout your stay by the delicious meals from Café Felix below.

This is The Loft, at The Old Oak Manor, above Café Felix in the small one-street South African town of Riebeek-Kasteel. It is a surprisingly stylish space in which to indulge your escape fantasies, well designed by a kindred spirit who appreciates good design and décor. An open plan suite, one enters through double French wooden doors into a spacious lounge with couch and wingback chairs. There are pale grey walls, French antiques and wooden furniture throughout. 

The lounge is divided from the bedroom by a creative screen of white painted window frames. On either side there are more seating and writing areas, with coffee and tea facilities and an antique desk. A wooden slipper single bed and another wrought iron bed with teddy are available could you bear to share this place with anyone else. The bathroom is ever-so-lovely, with a French style freestanding bath, painted wooden floors and louvre screens on wheels.

Accommodation Experience:

I have always wanted to sleep above a restaurant, the idea of having a fabulous meal and then simply walking upstairs to a silky white bed somehow capturing my imagination. I sit in a corner of the Loft, listening to the sounds of life and smelling the enticing aromas from the restaurant below, but feeling hidden away from the world. 

Instead of joining the warm buzz of the restaurant below, I decide to continue my solitude and order dinner at the deck of my pretty suite which overlooks an autumnal vine and mountain. The universe responds, sending a Prussian blue sky, full bright moon and softly hooting owl as accompaniment. As opera music and a sweet local port drifts up from the restaurant below I drink in this moment and am able to extend it, seemingly forever, with no-one else any the worse off, and myself completely fulfilled and restored.

Zula Beach Cottage, Paternoster

Seaside Simplicity

  

What are the key features of a sensational seaside spot? Views of the sea, of course, within touching distance, with perhaps nothing separating one from the white sands other than a set of double glass doors and patio with an outdoor seating area. The architecture should be Cycladean, with clean lines, white walls, blue-grey windows and doors. Seaside interiors are ideally calm, cool and white, with hints of blue. 

Cue Zula Beach Cottage in the pristine little fishing village of Paternoster on the West Coast. This open plan cottage has all of these things. It is as close to the sea as it gets and the views are ever changing pictures of nature and the elements. The bachelor suite has an indoor and outdoor fireplace, a patio covered with a reed roof, with outdoor table and chairs. There are cushioned recliners on the lawn behind a low, curved whitewashed wall ending in a pretty blue gate to the beach.

Inside the linen is white and the bed is set back to enjoy the full views of the sea in privacy. The floors are covered in cool, glossy white tiles. There is a spacious glass shower and a well fitted, modern kitchen. An antique wooden wardrobe and wooden desk lend texture, along with wicker armchairs with nautical blue and white striped cushions to complete the maritime effect.

Accommodation Experience:

The magic of this place is its setting overlooking a long, natural beach in Paternoster. We sit outside enjoying sundowners late into the evening. As the sun finally starts setting, we watch spellbound as thousands of white seabirds tessellate their way onto the beach to rest. It takes more than half an hour for the never-ending wave of undulating, twisting, curving birds to land, rise and land again. It is a rare privilege and one has the sense that one could stay here for many weeks on end and not see all that these views have to reveal.