Prynnsberg Estate, Clocolan, Free State

History in the making

Never before had I been excited to stop in the middle of nowhere in the Free State. Cue Prynnsberg Estate, a glorious old 1881 manor house and lodge conveniently situated just back from the scenic R 26 between Fiksberg and Clocolan. There’s nothing better than discovering an old gem in a pretty setting, which is being restored to its former glory.

Classical of architecture and stylish of interior, I chose to stay in Aran, the Gamekeeper’s Lodge situated on a high hill beyond the original manor house. An original sandstone building typical of this area, I was worried by the name that the cottage would be dark and pokey, but this Lodge is as spacious and light as it is cosy, with a large open-plan lounge-kitchen-dining area with a fireplace and comfortable couches. The Lodge has been recently renovated to a high standard, but in keeping with the original period style. There are two bedrooms each with lovely white linen and traditional furniture, a luxurious sparkling bathroom complete with black-and-white checked tile floors and a ball and claw bath. A long veranda wraps around two sides of the building with an authentic ox-wagon decorating the wide front veranda. A pretty cherry blossom tree reminds one of the local fame of the region.

Accommodation Experience

As I move further into the second half of life, I find that what I look for in accommodation has changed. Increasingly I appreciate artistic integrity, sensory experiences, quintessential local character, and classical heritage with a fresh twist. In short, I am in search of soulful encounters of the most authentic kind. This is what I find at Prynnsberg Manor and Aran the Gamekeeper’s Lodge.

I wake early and head out to the long veranda which wraps around the Lodge. The views below are vast, and the mist lifting off the wide plains enhances the sense of an ancient and untouched African landscape.

After a hearty English breakfast the host offers to give us a tour of the manor house itself. I become quite giddy trying to figure out how all the many rooms are laid out in the extensive building. The host expertly leads us to the grand finale – a genuine Victorian bath house, with 3 freestanding baths laid out alongside one another in a spacious original stone building. I can only imagine the interesting conversations which have been had over the decades in this room and I instantly begin plotting and scheming a reason to return with a large group of favourite friends to add our own experience to the history of this estate.

The Grand Cafe and Rooms, Plettenberg Bay

 

A modern fairytale

I am quite green with envy at the fun which it seems was had in conceptualising the Grand Cafe and Rooms in Plettenberg Bay. Like a modern princess without a pea I climb onto my high bed via a red velvet footstool. I mean, where does one even get to use the term footstool nowadays, let alone describing one that is, I kid you not, genuinely covered in red velvet. A sense of humour exudes every aspect of this fantastical space, where no holds have been barred in the creation of a uniquely characterful romantic holiday hotel.

What I love about the Grand Cafe and Rooms at Plettenberg Bay:

• The sweeping ocean views from every part of the hotel
• The artistic license with which every corner of the establishment has been created
• The surprisingly glamorous and yet affordable rooms
• Luxurious raised beds and generous baths with views
• The Bath House, with its twin baths and eccentric, romantic courtyard feel
• Silver candelabra, red roses, pillow chocolates and an excess of velvet
• The dramatic Cigar Lounge, filled with interesting furnishings and books
• The outdoor restaurant with romantic, candle-lit round tables
• Friendly staff which seem to embrace the fun yet upmarket hospitable service

Accommodation experience

Once upon a time I had wanted to visit the Grand Cafe and Rooms. Like any good tale I had long to wait, with many obstacles and a few monsters to slay. But finally I found my way.

Later that same day, having a bubble bath by the candlelight (from a ridiculously large silver candelabra), with views of the ocean and star-lit skies, it was impossible not to be happy. The abandon with which the room had been lavished with creative and thoughtful detail could not help but be infectious. I felt a child-like joy in the experience, like the ending of a fairytale filled with romance and naive hope for the happily-ever-after. 

The Old Forge, Wilderness

Naturally restored

What a delight it was to discover the Old Forge, Wilderness. A stylish little cottage on a farm near Wilderness in the Western Cape, the Forge is everything lovely about a restored old outbuilding. The original building has been expertly restored to celebrate its beautiful stonework, while being extended to offer every modern convenience without detracting from its character. In keeping with the natural forest and grassland setting, the architecture is open and earthy, linking the exterior with the interior with a spacious deck style open plan lounge and kitchen area. The bathroom is also open, with privacy and views. Well-made, clear awnings provide protection against the elements.

The bedroom is in the original forge and the textured walls give a sense of cosiness and safety. The polished floors, fresh white linen, wooden furniture and elegant decor bring the look together with finesse. The host’s caring approach to nature, beautiful things, simplicity, comfort and hospitality is felt in every aspect of the delightful space.

Things I love about The Old Forge:

• Sensitive restoration of the original stone building
• Clever design which manages to feel both cosy and connected with the outdoors
• The extensive use of natural wood to complement the original stonework of the forge
• The way the natural materials are complemented with clean white cotton linen and thoughtful decor
• The friendly host who genuinely cares about creating a welcoming space while respecting one’s privacy
• The setting of the cottage on a farm in an area of outstanding natural beauty

Accommodation Experience

I was privileged to stay at the Old Forge while doing some debriefing and training work with a non-profit organisation in George for a week. At the end of each work day, the drive out of George to the Wilderness area was spectacular, and reminded me of expensive Riviera coastlines in Europe. I realised again how world-class our coastline and natural areas are in South Africa. Reaching Oakhurst Farm, I drove through a long avenue of tall Blue Gum trees, which created the perfect transitional space from my emotionally and cognitively demanding work, to a place of rest, comfort and beauty in nature. Spending time in the open lounge, watching the sun set across the adjacent field, was gently restorative, and sinking into the soft bed at night was deeply restful. The natural, grounding, inexpensive, yet nurturing stay enhanced my work experience and passed on to me a calm energy with which I was able to engage joyfully with the people of the region and gratefully receiving wisdom from their experiences and reflections.

Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park

Glamping at its best

Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park, Elgin, Western Cape

My parents, the most rugged of safari campers, recently asked me why I do not share their love of the Tent in the Great Outdoors. I replied that while I love being in nature, I do not enjoy grovelling in the dirt, dealing with leaking tents, trekking to the bathroom at night in the freezing cold and sharing grotty public bathrooms with critters of various shapes and forms. By contrast, Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park in Elgin is everything I love about being in nature in style. This is true glamping at its best.

My luxury trailer, rather sardonically called “Life Before Colour”, is as dinky as it is artful. The theme is of a bygone era reminiscent of black and white colour movies, and everything is beautifully decorated in black and white patterns, down to the wallpaper in the loo cubicle. Clever and fun decorating combined with thoughtful conveniences make the trailer a fabulous design success. The trailer is completely self contained, with a spacious double bed, a full sized Victorian bath, basin, wardrobe, separated toilet, kitchenette and lounge area. Outside there is a deck with far-reaching views of the Elgin valley.

Accommodation Experience:

I felt like a child exploring my interesting trailer, opening and closing all that moved. It took me a while to believe that everything really works – from the pop-up awnings at the windows, to the kettle, to the characterful little Smeg fridge, to the bath, to the flushing toilet.

After a fairytale bath, when I finally snuggled into my bed late that night, everything felt cosy and warm. I looked up and saw that the curved walls in the bedroom area were painted in silvery gold which shimmered in the light. I took a last look down the full length of the trailer, and sighed with pleasure at the perfect balance of luxury and fun achieved in this most characterful of stays.

What I love about Old Mac Daddy Luxury Trailer Park:

• The sense of humour which permeates the place, from the name “Old Mac Daddy” to the individually decorated trailers with interesting names and unique themes
• The surprising luxury of the trailers, where there is a feeling that no effort has been spared in the pursuit of comfort and creativity
• The quirky decor, in which every detail is true to the theme of each trailer
• The self-contained nature of the trailers, where each has its own bed, bathroom, kitchenette and lounge
• The setting and views of the Elgin valley
• The modern eco-design of the communal dining area