Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge, Hluhluwe

Coming of Age

What sets this luxury lodge apart from all others is its spectacular location on the edge of a vast valley in Hluhluwe Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal. The architecture makes the most of this setting, with a dramatic, full-height glass front and wooden deck which reaches out into the view. From this vantage point, you can watch the light change as the sun rises and sets, while witnessing animals move silently below, undisturbed and protected in a pristine natural habitat.

The main lodge is upmarket, with snazzy furnishings and tasteful local fabrics. Lighting has been used to great effect to showcase a wall-length mural of wildlife. Throughout the lodge, movement has been created by photographic wall murals and I have to remind myself to close my mouth as each turn reveals a new breath-taking scene. The long pool is framed on one side with bright aloes and on the other side with nothing but open valley views.

This new lodge represents a coming of age for South African hospitality. Offering the best that local architecture, photography, décor, food and natural wildlife, the lodge is a celebration of all that this unique corner of the globe offers its privileged guests. Community-owned, the professionalism, warmth and pride of the staff marks our point in history as we transform into a developed nation. Lodge manager Sphamandla Shabalala says “It is Isibindi’s commitment to staff development that attracted me to take up the position at this lodge. I love taking staff from a basic level and growing them into competent professionals” he explains. “It is so rewarding to see people grow – it’s such a sense of achievement.”

Accommodation experience:

Despite the many amazing features of this lodge, I am most excited about waking up to this gorgeous face – a giant photograph of a warthog. I set my alarm early, even earlier than necessary to catch the morning game drive. I smile as I wake and greet my newfound best bud. I sit in bed with my coffee and notice new modern features of my suite which I had not seen the night before. I marvel as the sky turns pink, then pale blue, then ochre and I feel intensely proud to be a South African on this gentle and beautiful dawn.

White Elephant Safari Lodge, Jozini

Life seems real

“It is essential to experience all the times and moods of this place.”

                                                                     Thomas Merton

Every moment at White Elephant Safari Lodge is an experience of the African bushveld of Northern KwaZulu-Natal.  From the sounds of the singing veld, to the views of the setting sun, to Bushbuck, warthog and giraffe wandering around the lodge, one feels immersed in this location and greatly privileged to be so closely connected to the land. The warm welcome by lodge hosts make one soon become an integrated local, learning the names and daily rhythms of the elephants and other family members. It is even possible to request an outing with an elephant behaviour researcher connected to the lodge and stationed at the Pongola Game Reserve.

The accommodation in authentic canvas safari tents further connects one to the African surrounds, though glamping this is for sure. The white linen is offset by rich oranges and red, softened again by a misty mosquito net. A glorious freestanding Victorian bath is set up against the back of the tent such that you may lift the sides to feel as if you are outdoors. If this is still not enough contact with African blue skies, an outdoor shower under a kindly Acacia tree will complete your fantasy.

Accommodation Experience

Having been to many game reserves and luxury lodges in Africa, I somehow still find myself captivated by this one. Perhaps it is the openness of this lodge which allows a free flow of animals, and that one is intimately connected to this environment by being in a tent. Or it may be the unique feature of this lodge that it overlooks the vast Jozini Dam and this combination of African bushveld next to a vast water source is an unusual and luxurious one. This allows one to choose between game drives, an outing with the elephant research station staff, water activities on the dam, or simply lazing in the lodge swimming pool while the animals move gently around you, all of which is perfect for this hot and sunny part of the world.

Gin and tonic in hand, I sigh with happiness as I sit on my deck appreciating the sun setting, creating pink light over the Jozini Dam. It is a hot day, the whole country being gripped in a heat wave. Nonetheless my hair is still damp from having just showered outdoors and I feel cooled simply being close to water. One quickly becomes integrated into the rhythms of this place, which mirror the movement of the fauna and flora of this environment. Above all, here there is a sense of great belonging, a oneness with the land and locals. I am reminded of the words of Thomas Merton in his journal, written in a very different climate and time, yet reaching into this time and this sense of integration with a natural place and its natural daily rhythms:

“How full the days are, full of quiet, ordered, occupied (sawing wood, sweeping, reading, taking notes, meditating, praying, tending to the fire, or just looking at the valley). Only here do I feel fully human. And only what is authentically human is fit to be offered to God ... Life seems real.”                                                                                                                       Thomas Merton

Hamilton's Tented Camp, Kruger National Park

Natural Connection

Following an 1880’s Africa Explorer theme, Hamilton’s Tented Camp is everything that luxury safari accommodation should be. Romantic tented suites are spaced far apart under ancient Jackalberry Trees, connected by raised wooden walkways. Set in a private concession right within the central, Big 5 game-rich area of the Kruger National Park between Skukuza and Satara, visitors have access to exclusive roads as well as their own private game viewing deck, with each suite overlooking a different curve of the Nwatsitsontso River.

The tents embrace the safari theme, with khaki-green canvas walls, oil lamps, a colonial style writing desk, old trunks and glossy wooden floors. The extra-wide King size beds have fine white linen and are draped with white mosquito nets. With air-conditioning, electricity, a generous wardrobe, thick, soft, white robes and towels, a glorious slipper bath overlooking the river and a private outdoor shower, this stay is both traditional and sumptuous.

We choose to stay in Tent 6, the furthest away from the restaurant, overlooking open bushveld. The suite is surrounded by windows, with two sets of double doors opening onto the riverfront deck. From the suite we see giraffe gliding past above the trees, and we hear an elephant munching. In the night we hear the call of hyena and hippos grunting, and we wake to the sound of a lion roaring so close by we need no further motivation to get up and head out for the morning game drive.

Back at camp after a successful morning drive, delicious meals are served at individual tables on an expansive deck overlooking the river. We watch an African Civet cat slink through the grass right below the deck and we drink a toast to our happy discovery of this wonderful place.

Accommodation Experience:

Sometimes the most intense loneliness comes within a relationship. With age comes the growing chasm of different interests, unspoken fears, and small slights opening deep wounds. Yet arriving at Hamilton’s luxurious and romantic Tented Camp, it is instantly clear that any divide between us had never really existed except in our own imagination. We immediately forget our sniping and become connected by our sense of shared joy at each new discovery. We move enthusiastically from exhilirating game drives to glorious meals, to heavenly bubble baths, to massages in our beautiful suite.

By evening we are sitting peacefully on our private balcony, relaxing in comfy Morris chairs. We enjoy sun-downers overlooking the river where a Saddle-billed Stork lands clumsily amongst the reeds. We both spontaneously admit that we would prefer to skip the evening game drive and enjoy our lovely view and the silence of our corner of the camp. 

Psychologist James Finley says that one of the best ways out of an impasse in a relationship is to be real and vulnerable about your own experience in the relationship. Soon we find ourselves speaking honestly about our fears and longings. In such a beautiful riverside setting, the words come easily and the feelings are gently held by the natural environment. A fresh breeze blows through our relationship, thanks to this caring accommodation situated in this unspoilt corner of the earth.