Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa

Detoxifying Treatment

There are many reasons to choose to stay at the Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa (www.12apostleshotel.com) – the perfect proximity and distance from fabulous Cape Town, the “nothing is too much to ask” service, the world class spa or the fine dining Azure restaurant. It is the place to see and be seen and I see guests arriving like movie stars in convertibles and limousines. I of course choose this hotel for its spectacular setting, discretely distanced from surrounding built up areas, overlooking a natural coastline and backing up against the Twelve Apostles mountain range.

I arrive early and wander around, professional staff diving out of my way as I approach. I ask directions to the pool. “Which one?” my host asks. There are three swimming pools – a natural rock pool with mountain views, an infinity pool which overlooks the sea and the spa pool set within a cool white cave. There are also several bars and dining areas and the Leopard Bar has a dark cigar lounge feel on one side, with breath-taking sea views and al fresco dining tables on the other side. I am a little overwhelmed by the choices and find a quiet table in the shade overlooking the infinity pool to settle in and do some writing before my spa treatment in the calm and sophisticated spa.

My suite is heavenly, with a sunken lounge and raised bed which looks out onto the ocean on two sides. A dramatic wall of glass provides instant access to the dark blue sea views. As expected from one of the internationally successful Red Carnation Hotels (www.redcarnationhotels.com), the decor is elegant - both timeless and modern, with beautifully upholstered chairs and couch under a creative mirror. Fresh fruit and a white orchid are placed on the lounge table, together with a choice of magazines and books. The bed is dressed in silky white linen with a gold triple satin-stitched oxford trim - reaching new thread-count heights from which, I suspect, there is no return. In the spacious tiled bathroom there are quality beauty products from the spa. A soft robe and beach bag are provided for use in the suite, spa or pool.

Accommodation Experience:

I am staying at the Twelve Apostles on a “detox” package. I am not sure what I am detoxing from, aside from perhaps my rational self. Apart from the heavenly detoxifying Rasul treatment, I live it up, with popcorn and a milkshake to go with a DVD, delivered to my suite through room service. I page through a plethora of magazines and make the most of the free wifi. The weather is unsettled, as am I. I am running away from myself and to this aim there are plenty of fun diversions to be had. I excitedly flick through them all.

Finally I settle into my glorious bed to try and quieten down. From this vantage point I look down directly onto the ocean. I watch squalls move haphazardly across the water and I let the sea do its work on my soul. At first it is disturbing and uncomfortable. But I am learning to stay with it and see the storm through to the other side. The sun sets and the moon rises over the sea, still thrashing. I sleep little, spellbound by its restless beauty. Gradually towards morning the sea finally stills and there is a dawn hush where everything feels possible and hopeful. Instead of escaping from myself I feel a gentle coming home to myself, and I leave a healthier version of myself, cleansed of chaos and unrest.

The Cottage at Montpellier

Making it our own

Sometimes staying in a guesthouse or a cottage feels like an invasion of someone else’s space. We felt instantly possessive over the cottage at Montpellier. It felt like our own private villa, a holiday cottage where we could relax and be completely ourselves. The privacy was lovely and we basked in the solitude and stillness. Set up against what felt like our very own mountain, the cottage has plentiful double doors, with views right up the mountain on one side, or down the across the valley to the mountains beyond. The interiors are perfectly complementary to the setting, themed in a French country farmhouse style. There is a constant play of texture and light.

In the open plan lounge there is a grand fireplace, a large comfortable creamy couch and wingback chair, hessian text-printed cushions, thick woven grey rugs and koir matting. There is an oversized basket with firewood. The kitchen has a wooden dining table and chairs, and is well equipped with a Nespresso machine, full sized fridge and oven. The butler’s sink and cool grey screed flooring contributes to the Provencial theme while the sun streams in from every angle.

The cottage has its own private swimming pool with views to open the heart. Grey-green olive trees and rich orange rock set the palette for the exteriors and interiors. There are two bedrooms, one with twin single beds and one with a King size bed. Each bedroom has covered headboards, one in apricot with floral cushions to mirror the vibrant exterior stone. Every piece of wooden furniture and lighting has been tastefully selected to match the country theme. The windows and doors are shuttered. There is air-conditioning in both bedrooms and the beds are dressed in cool white cotton linen. 

Each bedroom is en-suite, the main bedroom with a freestanding Victorian bath set up against a window with views straight up the mountain. Both bathrooms have an enormous walk-in shower. 

Accommodation Experience

Despite the many fabulous restaurants in the area, we decide to eat in, or should I say, al fresco. We lay the small, round table by the pool with linen napkins and candles, and we fill our wine glasses with a chilled complimentary Chenin Blanc. It has been a hot day, and it is a relief to see the sun set and feel the cool breeze come off the mountain. As we watch the moon rise over the pool and hear an owl gently hoot from the grove of olive trees below, we congratulate ourselves on staying in. It has meant participating in the creation of a romantic memory which I know we will draw on for many years to come.

Temenos Retreat Centre, McGregor

The Little Way

I am a little unimpressed by ascetic spirituality, which I am sure says more about me than others. So it is with a sigh of deep relief when I find here another form of spirituality entirely. It is a spirituality that celebrates the green, the soft and the aesthetic. This is found in the village of McGregor, home to artists and healers, as one enters into the hushed walled garden of Temenos Retreat Centre.

 

The garden rooms are designed in a series of low-walled and hedged spaces, each with a unique character. There are statues, water features, a labyrinth and well placed benches. A fusion of icons has been used throughout and a circle of marked stones encourages the retreatant to take up the seat of different religions with open-mindedness and respect. Each section of the garden has a unique meditation room, a quiet space for prayer and reflection. “The Little Way” is a lovely chapel, while a dark meditation room called “the Well” is a sunken sacred space with the gentle sound of trickling water. Temore, the “inner temple of the heart”, encourages one to “turn within”, with blue walls, stained-glass windows and mosaic inlaid tiled floors.

Beautiful food is served in Tebaldis Restaurant, which "celebrates the passion of good food and wine". Accommodation is offered in Georgian or thatched self-catering cottages, referenced to mystics and hermitages, with names like Assisi, Carmel, Subiaco, Liseux, Iona and Avila. The cottages, with deep-set windows and green shutters, are nestled into the lush gardens. Each cottage has stable doors opening onto private pergola patios with outdoor seating areas. Inside there are fireplaces for the winter and Tuscan-style cool terra cotta tiles for the summer. Wooden cottage furniture, a Kelim rug, mosquito nets and white linen complete the effect. The apricot, pink and green floral curtains in our cottage perfectly mirror the autumn vines of the pergola outside the window.

Accommodation Experience:

Earlier in the day I had spotted a prayer room which appealed to me, and in the late afternoon I made my way there alone. I had imagined exactly how serene and spiritual I would feel. But after sitting in the lovely space for a while I felt neither holy nor peaceful. Instead I felt restless, sad and lost, plagued by what David Whyte calls “those tiny but frightening questions.” The privacy of the space enabled me to stay with my vulnerability and I sat through the panic to see where it would lead me. It was an interesting experience to taste the feelings, instead of distracting myself with action or entertainment. And of course, once I let go of my expectations and passed through the intense feelings, I did find myself grounded in a deep sense of peace and certainty that all would be, and already was, well.

Every time I enter into such a space it is an invitation to renew my trust in the process of silence and solitude, in an acceptance of the little way. Stripped down to a seed, awaiting transformation, which somehow never comes with a bang, but a gentle breaking open to let the light in.

The Old Orchard, Kokstad

Not all who wander are lost

There is something about being close to water which is good for the soul. It is especially lovely being right down at the level of water, a feeling of floating with the ducks. Add to this experience a log cabin with tasteful décor and you have the makings of instant happiness. This is what I find outside the unassuming little town of Kokstad on the border of the Eastern Cape and KwaZulu-Natal.

The Old Orchard is a busy little bed and breakfast situated a few kilometers outside the town, on a farm on the R56 to Matatiele. The lakeside log cabins are clustered on one side of the lake, near a restaurant and plunge pool, and they all overlook open hills and mountains beyond. The cottages each have a deck which extends out right over the water, where one can watch ducks move underneath and weavers building nests in the reeds alongside.

Inside, the thatched log cabins are cosy and pretty, with upholstered wingback armchairs and natural décor. There is white linen on the comfortable beds which face the water and hillside views.

Accommodation Experience:

We have travelled far and arrive tired but pleased about our choice of stay, instantly refreshed by the green surrounds. We settle in just before a dramatic summer berg storm. From our waterfront vantage point we enjoy watching the storm move across the skies. The downpour comes in sheets across the water and feels much closer for our setting. We hunker down with the birds, who find refuge under our deck, and we are grateful for our safe spot from which to witness the impressive display. The storm quickly passes and soon the birds are out again as if nothing has happened. A cup of tea and a good book later and we spend an enjoyable afternoon alternating between reading and watching the water birds going about their duck-like business. Whether it is the cleansing storm that took our minds off our troubles, or the watery setting or simply watching nature being natural, we find ourselves deeply refreshed and the happiest versions of our travelling selves.

Zula Beach Cottage, Paternoster

Seaside Simplicity

  

What are the key features of a sensational seaside spot? Views of the sea, of course, within touching distance, with perhaps nothing separating one from the white sands other than a set of double glass doors and patio with an outdoor seating area. The architecture should be Cycladean, with clean lines, white walls, blue-grey windows and doors. Seaside interiors are ideally calm, cool and white, with hints of blue. 

Cue Zula Beach Cottage in the pristine little fishing village of Paternoster on the West Coast. This open plan cottage has all of these things. It is as close to the sea as it gets and the views are ever changing pictures of nature and the elements. The bachelor suite has an indoor and outdoor fireplace, a patio covered with a reed roof, with outdoor table and chairs. There are cushioned recliners on the lawn behind a low, curved whitewashed wall ending in a pretty blue gate to the beach.

Inside the linen is white and the bed is set back to enjoy the full views of the sea in privacy. The floors are covered in cool, glossy white tiles. There is a spacious glass shower and a well fitted, modern kitchen. An antique wooden wardrobe and wooden desk lend texture, along with wicker armchairs with nautical blue and white striped cushions to complete the maritime effect.

Accommodation Experience:

The magic of this place is its setting overlooking a long, natural beach in Paternoster. We sit outside enjoying sundowners late into the evening. As the sun finally starts setting, we watch spellbound as thousands of white seabirds tessellate their way onto the beach to rest. It takes more than half an hour for the never-ending wave of undulating, twisting, curving birds to land, rise and land again. It is a rare privilege and one has the sense that one could stay here for many weeks on end and not see all that these views have to reveal.

Blackwood Log Cabin, Hout Bay

Wordless prayer

This is one of those places where I walked in and the view simply took my breath away. I moved spellbound towards the deck, while the poor hostess bounced in front of me trying to catch my attention to explain various practicalities. I waved her away with a glazed smile, and opened every one of the glass doors to let the cool forest breeze and astounding mountain views in.

As I walked out onto the deck I breathed deeply, remembering why I have always loved Hout Bay. It is a thickly forested green haven, close to Cape Town, with a pretty, winding, tall-tree-lined road into town. It has easy access to beautiful beaches like Llandudno, Camps Bay, Noordhoek and the spectacular Chapman’s Peak drive. But best of all, it is surrounded by towering mountains, with two perfectly-placed gaps between the mountains – one allowing fresh morning sunlight to spill over the back of Table Mountain, the other parting from the sea side allows late golden light to shine up the valley, where long evenings may be spent enjoying sundowners on the deck while many other parts of Cape Town are already in the shadow of the mountain.

And within this pristine setting I find the perfect Hout Bay accommodation – Blackwood Log Cabin Mountain Retreat. A glamorous yet natural wooden house set high up a hill in the thick forest setting, the house has been designed to maximize the views on every front. The lounge is conservatory style, with surround glass doors opening onto the deck which faces in three directions. Even the bedrooms have ceiling-to-floor glass all round. And of course one of my favourite things – a freestanding bath set up against a bank of windows with forest and mountain views and cool breezes to offset the warm water.

The cabin is a freestanding villa, with a well fitted, full scale kitchen, open plan dining and lounge area. The lounge is decorated with a natural, organic touch, including woven lamps, baskets and hanging rows of flat, pearly shells on the walls. The look is not too earthy-crunchy though, and it is sophisticated and modern, with a clean-lined grey couch and a Kelim rug. There are two private bedrooms and two full bathrooms, one with bath and one with shower. There is an indoor fireplace and outdoor barbeque area, with 3 lovely outdoor seating areas, and a hammock. The lodge has its own private swimming pool.

Accommodation Experience:

I was supposed to be working on a big report which was due at the end of the month. But when a colleague phoned to ask about my progress, my reply was simple – “It’s too beautiful.” She chuckled and left me in peace.

I lay on the hammock on the deck, perfectly shaded from the hot afternoon sun, a cool breeze blowing across me. I wanted to pray, but, like Mary Oliver, "I have not forgotten the Way, but, a little, the way to the Way". My prayer came out in a wordless combination of request and gratitude – a silent and deep thanks for this place and moment, all that had come before and all that was yet to come and for the hope and certainty of a life well lived.

Cape Heritage Hotel, Cape Town

Celebration of local, traditional and modern

This is one of the best city hotels I have ever stayed at. With a penchant for character, I have always been drawn to historic hotels. This is not without its risks – think musty curtains, dodgy plumbing, creaking stairs and dark, pokey rooms. Not this one. I don’t quite know how they have done it, but the Cape Heritage Hotel in Cape Town is the perfect blend of old and new.

One of the oldest buildings in Cape Town, the hotel has been perfectly preserved. The walls are at least half a meter thick, with deep-set sash windows. The original wooden stairs are solid (and cleverly carpeted in the middle). There are fresh, modern fabrics throughout and the décor is both tasteful and creative. Local vibrant South African art celebrates the context and brings colour and texture to every room. Beautiful modern-but-traditional wall-mounted lights fittings and chandelier add elegance and grandeur. The hotel prides itself on its glamorous and spacious bathrooms, which are a delight to experience.

A sumptuous breakfast is served in the sunny courtyard next to the oldest living grape vine in the city.

Accommodation Experience:

Unusually, I choose one of the standard rooms at the Cape Heritage Hotel, because I have fallen in love with the elegant bath placed in the bedroom up against a high window. The bed is equally pretty and superbly comfortable. I wake early and roll over to find a perfectly positioned light fitting within easy reach. I look around and realise that every single luxury feature in the room is well chosen, and perhaps more importantly, functions effectively. There are thoughtful extra touches – a well placed extending mirror in the bathroom, a glass jar with cotton wool, a heated towel rail. I have a moment, like at the end of a great stage performance, where I want to first sit silently nodding in appreciation, then break out in quiet, slow, lengthy applause.